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18th May 2017, 07:31 PM
#91
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
Yep, if all panels are the same Voc (open circuit volts) that idea will work tickety boo
Well the fixed is 22v and the folding is 22.5v..
Thats close enough yea??
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18th May 2017 07:31 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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19th May 2017, 07:14 PM
#92
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
bigguwesty
Well the fixed is 22v and the folding is 22.5v..
Thats close enough yea??
Yup good enough both will essentially be 22v
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Lucus30's 1999 GU ST TB45E
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4th January 2018, 07:31 PM
#93
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
Jay see, if you want a low cost solar reg, capable of handling up to around 170w of solar I doubt you would do better than this one at the price.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VICTRON-B...26.m2548.l4275
Note that it comes with a 5 year warranty ..... which says a lot about it’s quality.
It’s a reg which is well thought of from a well known company with a great attitude. I know a number of folk experimenting with low cost computerised lithium battery management who have found these to be good & reliable regs.
It also has the ability to connect a battery temperature probe, allowing for temperature compensated charging, which I rate highly in regard to looking after batteries well.
In terms of quality the difference between this & the Chinese cheapies like the CMPT02 is chalk & cheese...... no comparison.
Hi Cuppa, Just purchased one of these controllers for my twin folding 80w panels. In the instructions it says to always connect to the battery first so that the controller can recognize the system voltage. Knowing not much about solar gear, does this mean every time I use the panels I need to connect the controller to the battery and then the panels to the controller? Seems at bit of a pain on a portable system with the controller mounted on the rear of a panel.
2014 Titanium Y61 with all the fruit ................
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4th January 2018, 08:06 PM
#94
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
bazzaboy
Hi Cuppa, Just purchased one of these controllers for my twin folding 80w panels. In the instructions it says to always connect to the battery first so that the controller can recognize the system voltage. Knowing not much about solar gear, does this mean every time I use the panels I need to connect the controller to the battery and then the panels to the controller? Seems at bit of a pain on a portable system with the controller mounted on the rear of a panel.
Not having personally used that specific controller myself I can't be 100% certain, but I would be very surprised if disconnecting the controller from the batteries each time is necessary. I would think that if you leave the controller connected to the batteries it would be ok if you then connect the panels to the controller using an anderson plug ...BUT .... just to be cautious I would suggest that prior to connecting the panels that you have them either covered or just laying face down so their output is restricted to 'not much at all'.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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4th January 2018, 08:58 PM
#95
I am he, fear me
Just leave it connected to the batteries all the time.
You can connect/disconnect the panels as often as you like (which is sorta what happens when a cloud passes or the sun goes down).
If, for whatever reason, you do disconnect the batteries from the controller, reconnect the battery before you reconnect the panels/s.
The reason isn't actually to do with the batteries it is to do with the load voltage.
If the controller doesn't know the load is 12 volt equipment it can send overvoltages to whatever you have connected.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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5th January 2018, 10:22 AM
#96
Patrol Freak
Depends how your controller is hooked up to your panels, but if space allows, IMO include a rated isolating switch between solar array and controller (single pole ok here). Handy for for safe PV isolation and testing panel out open circuit.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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5th January 2018, 11:38 AM
#97
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Depends how your controller is hooked up to your panels, but if space allows, IMO include a rated isolating switch between solar array and controller (single pole ok here). Handy for for safe PV isolation and testing panel out open circuit.
Thanks Bidja, that's exactly what I will do, permanently mount a rated water proof switch and the controller to the rear of a panel. Saves another removable connection, allows me to isolate the panels, and to connect the controller to the battery first via the Anderson connector.
2014 Titanium Y61 with all the fruit ................
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5th January 2018, 12:38 PM
#98
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
bazzaboy
Thanks Bidja, that's exactly what I will do, permanently mount a rated water proof switch and the controller to the rear of a panel. Saves another removable connection, allows me to isolate the panels, and to connect the controller to the battery first via the Anderson connector.
@bazzaboy when you say portable panels are you wanting to be able to connect to other vehicles or is it simply so you can move the panels around to catch the sun?
The best location for this regulator or any regulator for that matter is no where near the panel, mount it as close to your battery as possible. Regulators dont like heat, the sun and the back of panels are great sources of heat. By having the regulator close to battery it increases the effectiveness of the regulator and reduces the voltage drop effects.
Mine is permanently mounted in the patrol, and my panels are easily connected/disconnected via anderson plug extension lead for portability chasing the sun.
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Last edited by sooty_10; 5th January 2018 at 07:02 PM.
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5th January 2018, 01:50 PM
#99
I am he, fear me
Agree 100%... worst place for a Reg is on the Panels due to heat and voltage drop, best place is close to the Batteries as is reasonable.
Last edited by the evil twin; 5th January 2018 at 03:13 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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5th January 2018, 02:52 PM
#100
Patrol Freak
Agree totally that Regs should be close as possible to the battery bank, also be mindful of the temp range and ventilation of the enclosure that is to accommodate the controller.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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