RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints

[mudnut]

The RB30 engine uses different engine control and electrical components than the more popular TB42.

Sometimes, I have found it difficult to locate items on and data for my vehicle. Feel free to post any information and/or helpful hints or experiences regarding the maintenance and repair of the RB30.

Fuel Return Solenoid.

If the engine wants to flood at Idle, maybe the fuel return solenoid isn't functioning properly.

There is an Engine Revolution Sensor Unit which is fixed to the metal end under the Drivers Side of the dash. It receives an RPM signal from the coil through a resistor which is cable tied or taped to the top radiator hose. The Engine Revolution Unit supplies a signal to the fuel return solenoid.

The circuit is on page 12-15 of the Haynes manual.
With Ignition off. Unclip the return fuel solenoid connector and check the resistance of the solenoid with a multimeter. It should have a resistance of between 20 to 25 ohms.

If you intend to check the operation of the circuit live, dig out the rubber grommets which seal the wires at the connector. Insert the meter probes and set it to volts.

With the engine running, the voltage readings to the solenoid are: at idle 12 to 14 volts and zero volts above 1450 rpm, (you should be able to hear it click in and out).

I used some some silicon to reseal the wires, making sure no silicon is between the wires, so there is no chance of current tracking between the two.

The Fuel Return solenoid is situated under the top radiator hose.


Added info below from Dom14.

RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints - Hyperlinks to specific areas of the thread.


Fuel Return Solenoid (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516849&viewfull=1#post516849)

Fuel Pump Control Unit(FPCU) (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516867&viewfull=1#post516867)

Engine can't achieve high revs (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516873&viewfull=1#post516873)

Engine coolant drain plug (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516873&viewfull=1#post516873)

Speedo Problems and Adjustment (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=517401&viewfull=1#post517401)

Ignition Auto Advance Vacuum Diaphragm (Poor Performance and Fuel Economy ). (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=517414&viewfull=1#post517414)

Testing for a blown head gasket (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=537609&viewfull=1#post537609)

Air Intake Pre-heat assembly fitted to a stock RB30S (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=579399&viewfull=1#post579399)

Reasons for Backfiring (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=593711&viewfull=1#post593711)

Heater core blockage cleaning method on a GQ Patrol (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=614460&viewfull=1#post614460)

instrument panel circuit for an RB30S (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=593746&viewfull=1#post593746)

RB30 Patrol(or any vehicle) Universal Joint(s) Replacement (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37586-RB30-Patrol-Rear-Universal-Joint-Replacement&p=683008&viewfull=1#post683008)

RB30 Vacuum line diagram and related components (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=615203&viewfull=1#post615203)

RB30 Patrol Coolant flow diagram(s) (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=694398&viewfull=1#post694398)

RB30-TB42 Nikki carby tuning procedure(temporary) (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=703286&viewfull=1#post703286)

Carburetor lean/rich diagnostics (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=703430&viewfull=1#post703430)

A useful modification after snorkel installation (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=699641&viewfull=1#post699641)

Fan Clutch test (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=697544&viewfull=1#post697544)

[mudnut]

Fuel Pump Control Unit

This is situated below the fuses behind the drivers kick panel. This unit switches the fuel pump on and off. It also provides a timing circuit to prime fuel to the carby for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on.

The fuel pump is allowed to operate via an oil pressure switch on the engine. (Green wire)

This is to protect the engine from loss of oil pressure.

The fuel control unit has the timing circuit to allow the fuel pump to run, until sufficient oil pressure is reached.

The fuel control unit has Brown, White/red, Black, Green/red, Green and Light Green wires at the connector.

[mudnut]

Engine can't achieve high revs.

If the engine has trouble obtaining high revs, the second stage carby butterfly may be sticking or is stuck shut. It is possible to operate the second stage by hand, while the carby is on the engine, (It is a lot easier with the air filter housing removed). In the past, I have had to take the carby off and the butterfly out. I then used some fine wet'n' dry sand paper to smoothe the carby bore and the butterfly edges. When refitting the butterfly, take care to seat it in the bore properly. Test that it moves freely and does not try to stick in the shut position. It took me quite a few adjustments of the butterfly to get it operating correctly.

[mudnut]

Engine coolant drain plug.

When changing out the engine coolant you need to open the drain plug in the engine block. It is situated under the exhaust manifold towards the rear of the block. (The hex head of the plug on my engine is 22mm.) The plug uses a copper washer to maintain a good seal.

[NP99]

Engine coolant drain plug.

When changing out the engine coolant you need to open the drain plug in the engine block. It is situated under the exhaust manifold towards the rear of the block. (The hex head of the plug on my engine is 22mm.) The plug uses a copper washer to maintain a good seal.

I wonder how many radiator places do that? Good info mate.

[mudnut]

I can't take the credit for knowing where the drain plug is. George (Alitis) posted it a while back.

[mudnut]

Speedo Problems and Adjustment.

Here are some Links to threads dealing with speedos:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?27775-GQ-Speedo-reads-overspeed-sometimes

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?23540-Gq-Speedo-adjustment-to-read-correct-speed&highlight=adjust+speedo

Some forum members have had success at getting their speedos, odometers and trip meters to work by thumping the dash. The cause of a problem may occasionally be found (or sometimes fixed if you are lucky), by taking the the dash surround off and tapping the connections and casing with the handle of a screwdriver.


The first picture is of a test lead I made, using the stainless steel strip from a windscreen wiper. I cut them to length, bent them to shape and soldered them to a piece of twin core flex cable. These U shaped ends can be pushed into the back of the gauge cluster connectors. The cluster can be refitted so the car can be driven and on road readings can be easily taken. The other ends have been stripped, soldered and mounted with a insulation between them so the multimeter probes push in firmly.

The second picture shows the hole drilled in the top of the cluster, for access to the speedo adjustment potentiometer, as GQ TANK posted in the above mentioned thread. I use a 9/32 drill bit (by hand) so that I can fit the old style caps used on power point face plates.

[mudnut]

Auto Advance Diaphragm (Poor Performance and Fuel Economy ).

One possible cause of poor economy and performance may be the Auto Advance Diaphragm. It is situated on the front of the distributor. It can be checked by removing the vacuum hose while the engine is running. The engine revs should drop and then pick up, immediately the hose is refitted.

Another way to test the diaphragm is by using a hand operated vacuum pump which can be bought at an auto spares shop or off EBay. (I converted an old bike pump to work in reverse. But use it gently or the diaphragm may split).

I found the Diaphragm was not holding vacuum so I had to send it away to get reconditioned, via BURSONS.

The pictures below show the diaphragm at rest and under vacuum pressure. See how the arm retracts into the housing.

Because I had to wait for the diaphragm to be returned, I used this Mitsubishi Diaphragm from the wreckers. I adapted it to fit by filing the arm to shape then cutting it. I manufactured a new end from a scrap of mild steel. I used clamps as heat sinks to protect the diaphragm rubber when I brazed the new end on.

[mudnut]

Equipment Location.

The relays for the Air Conditioner, Horn, Auto Choke, Power Windows, Ignition, Accessories and Heater are located under the steel plate next to the main battery.

The Rear Wiper Amplifier module is also mounted under this plate. It is clipped to the inner guard.

The picture is upside down so you can read the tags.

[mudnut]

Choke Break Diaphragm.

If the engine is flooding itself a few minutes after a cold start up, the Choke Break Diaphragm might be split or holed. Its job is to pull the auto choke off. Damage to the Choke Break Diaphragm and also the Auto Advance Diaphragm can be caused by the engine backfiring. The Choke Break Diaphragm is situated at the rear top of the carby, on the passenger side.

[mudnut]

Engine Bay.

The RB30 engine bay layout is very similar to the TD42 and TB42 engines, but there are some differences.

Drivers side.

1. Windscreen wiper motor..............7. Fuel filter.

2. Brake master cylinder..................8. Tacho signal resistor.

3. Clutch master cylinder................. 9. Ignition coil.

4. Air filter housing........................ 10. Window washer bottle.

5. Relay cover plate....................... 11. Top radiator hose.

6. Battery Earth / -ve terminal........ 12. Air conditioner sight glass.

[mudnut]

Engine Bay. Passenger Side.


1. Air intake Pre Heat................5. Radiator over flow bottle.

2. Power steering reservoir.........6. Distributor.

3. Oil filler cap.........................7. Timing belt cover.

4. Air intake dust separator........8. Radiator filler cap.

[mudnut]

Bleeding air from the cooling system.

After an engine coolant change out, or repair where the coolant has been drained, the air in the system must be removed.

This is to ensure that there is sufficient coolant for the system to operate properly and to eliminate the risk of creating an air lock you must bleed system with the heater controls set to hot.


The first picture shows a bleed point situated in the top of the aluminium casting where the top radiator hose is attached to the engine. The second picture is of a funnel I have made using an old radiator cap, a rubber grommet, some copper tube, a rubber shocker bush, a plastic bottle, hose clamp and rubber washer.

Another way is to tape the bottle neck to the radiator filler. ( When doing this, you must open the overflow bottle and raise the hoses up above the filler or the bottle may be over filled).

This is to allow the air in the system to bubble out without blurting coolant every where while the engine is running. You must run the engine until the thermostat opens, to make sure air is not trapped in the block.

After bleeding the system, it is a good idea to take the vehicle for a short drive, wait for it to cool down and check the coolant level again.

[mudnut]

Exhaust Gas Recycling Valve. (EGR)

The EGR valve is part of the Emissions and Engine control system. The valve is located on the rear of the intake manifold. Its job is to allow spent exhaust gasses to enter the inlet manifold. This reduces the combustion temperature and limits the amount Nitrous Oxides produced by the engine.

The following problems may be caused by a malfunctioning EGR: Running rough at Idle. Hesitation under acceleration. Poor fuel economy.

One problem my EGR had, was that the metal pipe which runs from the rear of the exhaust manifold to the valve, was cracked. This was only found after the exhaust manifold was removed to get it machined. It was causing fumes to enter the cabin, but only when the engine was under heavy acceleration, so was almost impossible to detect.

The factory fitted Exhaust Manifold Studs on the RB30 also had a tendency to crack. This will sometimes let exhaust fumes to enter the cabin too.

Cracked studs and a leaking exhaust gasket can also cause a loud ticking or noise similar to that caused by worn valve lifters.

To check the exhaust manifold properly, the metal shroud must be removed.

[mudnut]

Timing and Fuel.

After having the head off the engine, it is essential to get the engine tuned properly.

This is because after machining the head, the compression ratio is slightly changed.

I had set the timing to factory specification (A sticker on the tappet cover has the correct information), after the head gasket was replaced, and the engine was making a "pinging" noise (detonation) under acceleration. Detonation can cause engine damage.

I then retarded the timing by 4 degrees, at which point the pinging noise disappeared. On taking the patrol to get Dyno-Tuned, the engine was still found to be detonating (timing still too far advanced). The mechanic was able to retard the timing a further 8 degrees at which point the engine was still achieving maximum torque. (Stock standard configuration: 73.5 rear wheel Kilowatts).

He recommended only using 91 RON petrol for everyday use (commuting) and switching to 95 RON for towing and off road use.

[mudnut]

Running LPG and Dual Fuel.

There are many threads dealing with problems from running Dual Fuel.

I will try and deal with some commonly asked questions.

Tuning for LPG

I asked Alitis007 ( a very knowledgeable forum member) for timing, spark plug gaps specifications for a dual fuel RB30. This is his answer:

"Timing is a bit fiddly because you need to find the happy medium between both fuels. Reason being that lpg has a higher octane rating than petrol so you need to advance (timing) slowly and drive the car and make sure it doesn't ping on either fuel.

Don't alter the factory plug gap because that could cause a miss fire, you could put in a colder plug as lpg burns hotter, but if your motor burns oil using a cold plug is not ideal.

The heat range of a plug is written in its part number, higher the number colder the heat range, as is other information like size, length, type and some other information irrelevant for now.

As a example a BPR6E is colder than a BPR5E. Changing the heat range more than one number is not ideal either because you can severely alter the exhaust gas emissions of the car and possibly cause engine damage or premature failure.

Without tools like a gas analyser that's all the information I can help you with."

[mudnut]

LPG. Missfiring, rough idle and rough running.

A dual fuel engine has its own set of factors which may cause problems to deal with. First, and foremost, the ignition system needs to be in excellent condition to handle both fuels.

Running constantly on LPG, for long periods of time can cause some components in the carburettor to dry out and become unserviceable.

If after checking for vacuum leaks, faulty ignition components, freeing up any sticking carby linkages and running a carby cleaner in the petrol, the problem still persists, you have a few options.

You can do a carby kit change out, replace the carby with an aftermarket unit, or get it reconditioned. Once the problem has been fixed it is a good idea to start the engine on petrol, then switch to lpg, at least once a day. This will ensure that the carby components will be kept in working order.

The quality of the gas conversion plays a big part in how the engine will perform. I have found that some (not many) of the mechanics that do the gas conversion can sometimes use of inferior wiring connectors (scotch locks and cheap lugs), and also they may run poorly routed wiring and heater hoses.

Some mechanics also use pliers instead of proper lug crimpers when doing the conversion. This can cause high resistance joints and/or intermittent faults, and might also be a factor in making the engine backfire, which, in turn can cause more problems.

Routing of the electrical wiring over sharp metal, near the exhaust, or not securing the wiring properly may also result in short circuiting or open circuits. Also wiring that is under tension, has a knot in it or is flexing constantly can become open circuit. Sometimes it a can also be the cause of an intermittent fault.

Loose or poor quality spade lugs can develop a film of carbon under them. Although they may look okay it is a good idea to check them and use a pair of pliers to tighten them.

The cab heater hoses are often used to supply hot water to warm the mixer and prevent it from icing up and starving the engine of gas.

The use of "Y" pieces instead of "T" pieces at the junctions where the mixer heating circuit is piggybacked to the vehicle's heater is recommended, because they prevent cavitation, which may result in poor water circulation.

I have also seen problems caused by metal filings or swarf from the gas piping or from the service station get lodged in the gas components, such as solenoids.

There has also been a few cases where the solenoids and control components have failed.


The Diaphragm in the gas mixer can "go slack" over time, too so the mixture may need to be adjusted. As Alitis said in the above post: It is hard to tune for LPG, without the correct equipment.

I also recommend getting a LPG specialist to tune the engine

Some relevant threads;

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?27880-GQ-RB30-(carby)-Not-Idling-on-LPG-but-ok-on-Petrol&highlight=idle+mixture

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?14415-Running-issues&highlight=idle+mixture

This is a scotch lock. An easy way to join wires, but they sometimes fail, especially if subjected to moisture and vibration.
I strongly recommend soldering all joints and then sealing them with heat shrink or brush on electrical tape.

[GQ TANK]

Missfiring, rough idle and rough running

This can also be caused by the a loose carby. in the base of the carby there are 3 screws that join the butterfly assembly to the rest of the carby, they can come loose (especially if you are using a impco carby mixer) - as they have a lot of top loading on the carby.

To detect remove the air cleaner, try moving the top of the caby - any movement you have this issue.

To fix - remove the air cleaner - remove the 4 mounting bolta at the base of the carby, flip the carby and tighten the 3 large screws.

While you have the carby out and if you don't live in cold climate consider doing the carby heat mod for a little bit of extra power - remove the honey comb element.

Note:- the Loose carby issue affects the RB30s and TB42s - I have had it occur on both motors

[mudnut]

Have a look at some of the horsepower figures here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine

An interesting read for those that would love to modify their RB30.

From the 73.5 rear wheel KW readings I got on the dyno, it also shows that the drive train takes almost a third of the power the stock engine produced.

[Nissan cedric]

Hello mudnut... Ta for the effort. It has certainly lead me to consider. I have a fumes in the cabin and my fuel is 17.5L x 100 K's. So I will give this a big look at. Also is there a vacuum gauge that can be fitted and view that would assist re fuel usage. Again thank you for your effort. Perhaps we could have a dedicated RB30 site or sub site. Please keep the information coming. Regards Nissan Cedric

[mudnut]

When checking fuel economy you must take into account any modifications and accessories on the vehicle.

A roof rack, winch, rock sliders, Dual Fuel, rear bar, second or even third battery, shelving, aux fuel tank and lift etc, all add to the weight or wind resistance of your Patrol

Tyre size, type and air pressure must also be taken into account.

How you drive is a big factor.

My fuel economy has always been fairly consistent at around 14.7-15.5/100km.

Off road and towing it can rise to 18-19 l/100 km, or even more, If I hammer it.

I haven't tested it since the 2'' lift.

Hopefully, someone with experience with vacuum gauges will be able to answer your question.

[Nissan cedric]

Ta mudnut. Yes I have roof rack, second Battery, bull bar. Mickey T's 31/10.5r15. I usually run these at 38psi highway and lower as needed. I have a 2inch left with extractors. I usually sit on about 100ks highway or about 2800 on the tacho. Over this it's a toss up what is moving faster the tachco or the fuel gauge. Hence mY questIons about a visible vacuum gauge. Is it worth it?

[mudnut]

Have a read of this thread, regarding vacuum gauges:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?11066-How-Do-I-Increase-My-Fuel-Economy-Performance&highlight=vacuum+gauge

[mudnut]

With 24 km of towing and 210 of mainly highway driving with four adults aboard, a winch and 2" inch lift I am getting
15.64 litres / 100 klms.

[mudnut]

Testing for a blown head gasket.

To test for a blown head gasket, you must take the fan belt off. This is to stop the water pump from agitating the water and creating a stream of bubbles which appear at the radiator when the cap is off.

The engine can idle without the pump for 7-8 minutes (the engine must be cold at the start of the test), but no more or the engine will be damaged. I removed the sensor next to the head and made up a half bottle (similar to the bottle used to bleed the air from the coolant), with the right size fitting for the sensor hole.

With the radiator cap on I revved the engine and watched as the coolant in the head was forced out of the bottle, by a stream of exhaust gasses.

Once the head was removed I found two fire rings were split, because the engine had been subject to detonation.

The fire rings are pressed into the head gasket and are sandwiched between the head and the top of the bore.

When the engine is detonating for long periods of time, combustion runs hotter than normal.

The fire rings harden and split horizontally, allowing pressurised gas to be forced into the water galleries.

The sensor I removed is the black plastic one, with vacuum hoses attached, next to the yellow arrow. Be extra careful not to break the delicate hose fittings when removing and installing it. (It is repairable, but is a pain to do so).

[CJ Burns Esq]

With 24 km of towing and 210 of mainly highway driving with four adults aboard, a winch and 2" inch lift I am getting 15.64 litres / 100klms. It worked out to $53.70 for 234 km at today's price, which is getting expensive. If I really wanted economy, I wouldn't have bought a Patrol. :P

15.64 per 100? I'd be grateful for getting under 20l/100.
Was running 33 but dropped em back to 31''s.
Got rid of the roof rack but still have the 4 inch lift and snorkel.
Retimed it to 12 deg on ignition after a new rotor button and distributor cap and getting about 17l/100 now.

[Throbbinhood]

I get about 16L/100km on the hwy - 3" lift, 35's, winch, bar, snorkel, draws. Recent trip to Walhalla, did 150km hwy, 100km low range, 150km high range, ended up with 19L/100km which I'm happy with. Was fully loaded with camping gear too!

[mudnut]

I get about 16L/100km on the hwy - 3" lift, 35's, winch, bar, snorkel, draws. Recent trip to Walhalla, did 150km hwy, 100km low range, 150km high range, ended up with 19L/100km which I'm happy with. Was fully loaded with camping gear too!

So this is an RB30S or a converted RB30efi unit. Have you changed your diff ratios, as pushing 35' tyres will use a heap of fuel.

[mudnut]

Before undoing the spark plugs, it is a good idea to clean any dirt, oil or sand from the hole. This is to prevent any from falling into the engine or getting stuck in the thread.

I have made a tool out of thin walled pipe, so the vacuum cleaner can be used to make the job easy. The pipes inner diameter is 20 mm and the outer diameter is 23 mm so it can be slipped over the spark plug and have clearance to reach the bottom of the hole. I have used electrical tape to make a seal for the vacuum hose too. A piece of poly pipe would work just as well.

[mudnut]

The main fuse board is located in the driver side kick panel. Since becoming a member of this great forum I have seen a few requests for the location sticker. This one is for a '94 RB30. If you have an earlier or later model, feel free to post up your sticker if it is different to this.

[mudnut]

Rough running or low idle speed when air conditioner is operating.

The air conditioner (a/c) takes a fair bit of horsepower from the engine. A Fast Idle Control (FICD) solenoid allows vacuum pressure to operate an actuator (FIA) that increases the idle speed of the engine to compensate when the a/c kicks in.

There is a small rubber vacuum hose from the inlet manifold to the FICD (first picture) which is mounted above the brake booster. The FICD is supplied 12 volts via an Orange wire with a blue or purple stripe. Its negative is a black wire.

Another hose runs from the FICD to the FIA diaphragm (second picture) which is mounted near the front of the carby. Check the hose for splits or holes if the engine runs rough when the a/c cuts in.

When the a/c cuts in you should be able to see the FIA rod push on the carby linkage. If it doen't operate, you may need to use a hand vacuum pump to check that the diaphragm rubber isn't split or holed.

Another possibility is that the FIA operates, and the revs will rise, but the engine runs rough. If this happens the diaphragm rubber may have a small hole or split. This will become apparent when you use the vacuum pump and the actuator operates but returns to its normal position while it is still connected.

The FICD is powered by the air conditioner relay on a vehicle with a manual transmission.

A vehicle with an automatic transmission also has additional protection control via a Thermo Switch which operates an a/c cut relay, connected in series with the a/c relay.

Cooling for an automatic transmission is achieved by pumping its fluid through a core inside the radiator.

The Thermo Switch is situated on the radiator and it should have a blue and Yellow/blue wire. It operates when the engine coolant reaches 107 degrees C to cut out the a/c and off to allow the a/c to operate when the temp drops below 103 degrees C.

[mudnut]

Draining coolant from the RB30 radiator without splashing it everywhere is a tricky and tedious job at the best of times.

Undo the radiator cap, so there is no negative pressure applied to the system as the coolant level drops.

I have made a simple device from an empty silicon tube, that catches the coolant before it dribbles onto the chassis and drips onto the floor at various locations.

Unfortunately when the drain plug in the block is undone, the coolant goes everywhere, so it is best to leave it until the radiator is drained to reduce the flow.

[mudnut]

This is the RB30 transfer case shift instruction sticker which is supposed to be attached to the back of the Driver's sun visor. The owners manual also has the instructions.

[mudnut]

This is the Air Intake Pre-heat assembly fitted to a stock RB30S.

When the engine is cold, vacuum is applied to the diaphragm inside the silver unit on top of the air intake.

This unit has a small arm which operates a flap that closes the normal air intake and opens the "Stove Pipe".

The Stove pipe is attached to the metal shroud which collects hot air from around the exhaust manifold.

Vacuum pressure to the diaphragm is halted as the engine heats up, so the flap closes the stove pipe and opens the normal air intake.

The Pre-heat system must be operational for the vehicle to pass a roadworthy.

To prevent the pre-heat flap from opening during a trip where I am likely to encounter water crossings or dusty conditions, I take the normal hose off and stop up the holes with the two plugged pieces. (2nd picture).

Another simple way to block the hose is with an appropriately sized ball bearing.

As I live in a cooler climate, and have had to remove the heater grid positioned at the base of the carby (It had started to disintegrate and pieces were falling into the engine) For normal driving I keep the pre-heat system operational as it helps the engine warm up quickly to normal running temperature.

54962

[Throbbinhood]

So this is an RB30S or a converted RB30efi unit. Have you changed your diff ratios, as pushing 35' tyres will use a heap of fuel.

Sorry for the delayed response mate, only just saw this.

RB30S, running original diff ratio's (pretty sure they are 4.3 from factory). Recent trip around Tassie, did a tad over 3000kms, a lot of low range/sand stuff, windy coastal roads and dirt roads in that. Fully loaded with all our camping gear, me and the missus, we averaged around 18.8L/100km. I was pretty happy with that as we really didn't spend much time on the highway.

[mudnut]

That was about my average for the Beachport / Robe trip. So you've done well. Since I've had the carby kit fitted and the engine dyno tuned I can see that the RB30 wouldn't struggle pushing the larger tyres as I thought it might have.

[Throbbinhood]

That was about my average for the Beachport / Robe trip. So you've done well. Since I've had the carby kit fitted and the engine dyno tuned I can see that the RB30 wouldn't struggle pushing the larger tyres as I thought it might have.

Yeah just took a bit of getting used to how to drive it. With the 35's, I don't use 5th too often anymore, unless I've got some nice flats, but other than that, she'll sit on 110kph all day. Longer hills tend to find me winding back to 3rd but I've gotten used to it not being a supercar haha.

[mudnut]

Best fuel economy figures since I bought the Old Trol and have fitted a winch and 2inch lift at 14.91 litres per 100 km with 90% highway driving using unleaded. Very happy with that considering the weight and "super efficient aerodynamics" of the GQ.

[Throbbinhood]

Yeah they are good old trucks. People rubbish the rb30's, but I'm really happy with mine. Just wish it had a/c!

[mudnut]

What? Isn't one fitted? Or is it kaput?

[Throbbinhood]

What? Isn't one fitted? Or is it kaput?

Not fitted :( I'm guessing it was an option on the st30 range?

[mudnut]

Yes it is a factory option.

[Throbbinhood]

Anyone fitted one up after the fact? Wonder how hard it would be to add on.

[mudnut]

I have just replaced the battery and alternator with an after-market unit. I have had to shorten the spacer ( a few mm) which fits the bottom bracket of the alternator.

I also cut a slot along the spacer so it is a lot easier to fit and to take the alternator off. Time will tell if mud and muck will cause problems.
The modified spacer is pictured below.

I also had to source a small bolt ( from a motor cycle shop of all places) to fit the earth terminal.

After I had fitted the battery and alternator, I checked for leakage current.

With the negative terminal of the battery removed and the key turned to the off position, I placed a multimeter (set to 10 amps) in series with the circuit.

The initial leakage was .16 amps which then dropped to .043 amps. I pulled out the clock fuse and the audio fuse which caused the leakage current to drop to virtually zero. Which is excellent.

[mudnut]

Just a heads up: The RB30 timing belt cover has small holes near the top and there is no seal behind the harmonic balancer. When I changed out the timing belt, I found evidence that mud and water had been picked up by the timing belt.

[mudnut]

Apart from the charging and the starting circuit, the RB30 wiring diagrams I have seen usually have some differences, as the published manuals mainly deal with the TB42 and TD42.

START CIRCUIT OPERATION.

Once the key is moved to the start position current is supplied via the Black/yellow wire to the coils in the starter solenoid.

These coils produce a magnetic field and pull a metal rod (represented by the dotted line) which closes the main contacts.

This allows current to flow through the starter motor field coils and armature via carbon brushes.

A magnetic field is produced by the field coils and it reacts with the magnetic field also being produced in the armature.

This causes the armature to spin on its shaft.

As the armature speeds up it causes the pinion gear to spin, and move rapidly forward to engage the ring gear on the engine's fly wheel.

The engine turns until it fires and begins to run.

Once the key is released, power is cut to the solenoid and allows the metal rod to open the main contacts.

Power is cut to the starter motor which slows down so the pinion disengages from the ring gear.

The pinion moves back to its static position as the armature slows to a stop.

There is an inhibitor switch attached to automatic transmissions so the engine will not crank unless Neutral or Park is selected.

[kwaka9]

Hello All , I have an RB30 Patrol. I keeps backfiring when under load, any ideas? Kwaka9

[threedogs]

pop over to the intros and tell us a bit about yourself polite and all.
do you have a std dizzy and rotor button.?

[mudnut]

Backfiring


Backfiring on a non-modified Rb30 can be caused by the following factors:

A faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.

Incorrect Timing.

Thermostatic air cleaner system.

Vacuum leak.

Split, holed or faulty vacuum advance diaphragm.

Damaged valve spring or sticking valve.

Intake air leak.

Carby float level incorrect.

Cracked distributor cap.

Faulty distributor rotor.

Tracking between contacts in the distributor cap.

Faulty high tension leads.

Faulty spark plugs.

Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or manifold to engine pipe gasket.

Dirt caught in the needle and seat.

[mudnut]

This is the instrument panel circuit for an RB30S.

[Throbbinhood]

Who's trashing RB30s??!! I'm ready for a bear knuckle fight! :cool:
Show this to anybody trashing your RB30, :eck05: I did. :D

If you don't have any A/C, it must have been removed.

Don't think it's been removed. There is nothing at all for the AC there. No buttons. No wires. No pipes. No condenser.

[dom14]

Anyone fitted one up after the fact? Wonder how hard it would be to add on.

It would be a "heavy" job even with all the gear.
Professional job will be pretty expensive definitely.
I reckon it's ok if you salvage all the A/C gear from a wrecking GQ and slowly add the bits in your spare time.
Once finished you can get it checked for leaks and have it regassed by a professional.
Just need to make sure the compressor is a good one.
In my one, I re-gassed it myself.
But, not too sure how to go about finding the leaks.
It's not a dying need for me atm with freezing winter. :D
Last summer I was going to do it, then got slack 'cos Melbourne summer was like the spring last time.
If you are planning to do it as a project, let me know.
I can send photos of all the bits and pieces as well as well as the tools you might need.

[Throbbinhood]

It would be a "heavy" job even with all the gear.
Professional job will be pretty expensive definitely.
I reckon it's ok if you salvage all the A/C gear from a wrecking GQ and slowly add the bits in your spare time.
Once finished you can get it checked for leaks and have it regassed by a professional.
Just need to make sure the compressor is a good one.
In my one, I re-gassed it myself.
But, not too sure how to go about finding the leaks.
It's not a dying need for me atm with freezing winter. :D
Last summer I was going to do it, then got slack 'cos Melbourne summer was like the spring last time.
If you are planning to do it as a project, let me know.
I can send photos of all the bits and pieces as well as well as the tools you might need.

Thanks Dom - I made it through last summer without it, it wasn't the hottest summer, and I'm not a big believer in being in the middle of a dry forest on a hot day!

Have a few other plans for the moment, and as it's not my daily I've lost the urge to do it somewhat!! Slack, I know!! :P

[CaptainNewman]

Bloody awesome thread mudnut! has been infinitely helpful :)

[mudnut]

The GQ heater core has a
small catchment area below it.

If you have accidentally dropped
an object down the windscreen
demisting duct it and it has gone
down the main heater duct
is simple to get to.

Take the centre dash panel off,
the radio out and undo the screw
in the heater module. The whole
bottom plate / feet warming duct
then unclips and reveals the heater
duct. A small inspection camera
which comes with a magnet and a hook
is needed as the catchment is
up, behind a blind corner and
down again.

I taped a soft rubber 3/8 hose
to the camera and joined the
other end to a vacuum cleaner.
With the aid of the camera it
was easy to suck the dust
and sand out.

I added a large diameter hose
as a nozzle to grab the non-magnetic
objects.
Good luck.

[dom14]

This is a sketch of RB30 Patrol vacuum lines as it is in my RB30 Patrol

I will add the photos of each part as I go.

I would be grateful if the RB30 aficionados out there can have a look at this diagram and see if their RB30 vacuum lines are any different.
I referred to the vacuum lines diagrams in the Patrol factory manual, but couldn't find a one for RB30. It seems to cover TB42, TD42, but not RB30.

This diagram partially represents the real physical layout of the vacuum lines.

For example, carby throttle body and thermal vacuum switch vacuum lines are depicted as it's viewed from the driver side of the open bonnet.
Throttle body has two vacuum lines go into it, left and right. The diagram shows the same orientation.
TVV(Thermal vacuum valve) has two vacuum lines go into it. Top and bottom. The diagram shows the same orientation.
The three T-joints of the vacuum lines that are showing in the diagram represents the actual location of the T-joints as well.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59376

[NissanGQ4.2]

Craig is that better???

[mudnut]

A lot of work has gone into that thanks Dom.

[pat in a troll]

don't know if they've already been posted, but I have RB30 ECCS information from the factory R31 skyline service manual if it's not on here already (as well as engine information like torque figures etc.)

[dom14]

Yep, but nowhere near the work you've done on this thread. Few more photos and then I'm done. :D
Of course, I'll be moving into other areas of the Patrol.
I'll have to go through my old threads and see if I can bring anything here from there as well.
I'll be doing lot of work on my RB30 for next few weeks. I'm hoping to add as much as I can.
Just like my IT work, it takes more time to document than it takes to do the actual work. :thumbup:
Time for a beer.
:cheers:

[mudnut]

don't know if they've already been posted, but I have RB30 ECCS information from the factory R31 skyline service manual if it's not on here already (as well as engine information like torque figures etc.)

Go for it Pat. There are a lot of
modified RB30s out there.
If we find the thread gets
too big, we can always edit
it and add links to sub threads.

[pat in a troll]

ok i'll get busy getting images for the pages.

[Patrol'n]

Hi blokes,

Following on from the info above I might seem like a but of a dinosaur here, but I have a couple of quick questions about my RB30 patrol, hopefully someone can help.

I thought of going EFI, turbo etc, and still might, or do an engine transplant later when funds permit.

In the meantime, I discovered my patrol still has the honeycomb heater insert, so that's coming out, and my carb looks dirty as heck, so I'll service that too. When removing the honeycomb element, did others also remove the can in the other carb throat? I've read it is for fuel distribution and should be left in place?

I'm also going to see about a better exhaust as while I have extractors, the exhaust is very quiet and is probably a factory unit (or equivalent replacement), so might be a little restrictive.

Who knows, I might even be happy with it after the changes, since it only feels like it needs a little more power. I do like the simple set up.

Another question, I have a small round device above my brake booster on the firewall, with two wires, and a vacuum hose coming out of it, (first photo), what is this for and should the vacuum line be connected to the front of a round device on the front left of the carb? (Second photo).

Thanks all.

[mudnut]

Definitely leave the deflector
in the throat of the manifold.
If you do take the heater grid
out, it is best to have the stove
pipe assembly operating correctly
otherwise the engine will struggle
when cold.
The device you described is
the FICD which operates
the fast idle actuator when
the aircon is working. It
is dealt with
earlier in the thread.

[Patrol'n]

Definitely leave the deflector
in the throat of the manifold.
If you do take the heater grid
out, it is best to have the stove
pipe assembly operating correctly
otherwise the engine will struggle
when cold.
The device you described is
the FICD which operates
the fast idle actuator when
the aircon is working. It
is dealt with
earlier in the thread.

Hi Mudnut, I should have looked harder at this thread first, it's all there, thanks very much mate.

I see you replaced your alternator, did you fit another 60 amp one, or go for an upgrade? I've seen 80 amp ones available to fit, but I wonder about the original wiring handling extra current.

Here in WA it doesn't get that cold that often, but if it struggles in the cold I'll reinstate the stove pipe as you suggest. I'll have to weld a pipe fitting onto the extractors, since they don't have one.

[mudnut]

If you haven't
got the original heat
collector plate, it would be
easy to make one.
It would also be fairly easy
to attach it with stainless
steel hose clamps.

I believe the alternator
I acquired locally is
the same as what
Patrolapart have on offer.

[Patrol'n]

Ok, I've had a look at the patrolapart alternator, think I might have to get one, so can I assume you've had no wiring issues, fuses blowing etc? And did you notice any power drop from the engine driving a more powerful alternator?

[mudnut]

None at all, because
I have not added any
accessories, so the
power required to
drive the alternator
is the same.

[Throbbinhood]

If upgrading to a higher output alternator, I would definitely be running a higher capacity wire from the alternator to the battery.

[Patrol'n]

Point taken about the accessories, I guess it's because I may add a couple of extra things and therefore may require more from the alternator that I was asking, more of a future proofing line of thought.

[mudnut]

If upgrading to a higher output alternator, I would definitely be running a higher capacity wire from the alternator to the battery.

X2. Will be doing that in the near future.

[Patrol'n]

So I thought I'd post this in case any other RB30 owners were interested, I removed the heater element / grid thing from the carby spacer (finally, wish I'd done it sooner, easy as), and am so happy with it I thought I'd pass on the results. I did some k's today, and what a difference!

Lately I've been running somewhere around 18.5 litres per hundred, just filled up and only used 13.6 litres per hundred. Something like a 25% improvement in fuel economy and the difference in power and driveability is crazy. I was able to overtake up a hill, it sits comfortably or even in front of the pace of other cars off the lights (not hooning, too old for that, but before it struggled to keep up with the traffic from rest and now it doesn't feel laboured). I don't have to use as much throttle on the highway, it feels like a new car to drive, now when it revs it feels like there's a point to the revs, unlike before...

Awesome , I love my truck 😀

[CaptainNewman]

Dug up this old article from 1990 - a 'first drive' when the RB30 Patrol came out in Australia. Good to see what they though about it then, a useful and interesting read.

In that very same issue of the magazine they reviewed the 'brand new' 80 series as being "Toyota compromise of the "Cruiser's rugged he-man conservatism of shape and engineering", and that the 80 looks "almost pretty, with its pooftah curves and soft edges everywhere" !!! Oh how the times haven't changed...

61523
61524
61525
61526
61527

[dom14]

RB30 Patrol auto choke repair method

Hey guys,
This is how I managed to repair the thermostatic auto choke of the RB30 Patrol Nikki carby.
It's a fairly easy and quick fix, but can be improved.
I did it in a hurry, but pretty sure this works well.

Basically, this was a bad design. Simply the factory way of attaching the heater element disk
onto the bi-metal spring assembly is not that good. It's a some kinda metallic conductive glue or a brazing method, but comes off over time due to heat and vibration. Once it falls off from it's location, it simply rattles inside and doesn't do anything. So, if you hear the plastic auto choke unit has a rattle when you remove and give it a shake, it's 100% sure that it is not working. I suspect it is the case for many RB30 Patrols auto chokes out there, and they are running rich and the fuel economy is suffering as a result of that. So, I reckon this post is useful to many RB30 Patrol Nikki carby model fans out there.

If anybody has any ideas of how to improve the way the heater element disk attaches to the bi-metal spring, do post some ideas, please.

Special thanks to Rodney(Yendor) for donating his valuable time with advice & tips during my effort to understand the mechanics+electrics behind the auto choke system in RB30 Patrol. Without his help, I would still be scratching my head.

Another method of gluing the heater disk to the bimetal spring assembly is using a paste similar to the factory silver paste as in the picture and as in the link below.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/0-2ML-Silver-Conductive-Glue-Wire-Electrically-Glue-Paste-Adhesive-Paint-Repair-/181557690121?hash=item2a45ae7f09&clk_rvr_id=906568288703&rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wire-Glue-9ml-Tub-No-Soldering-Electrically-Conductive-Adhesive-0400-/141788653328?

Then, if it's strengthened with epoxy glue, it may hold it. It's better to use longer curing time epoxy(like 24-48 hours) and not put it together and use it until the epoxy completely bond to the bi-metal spring.

[dom14]

This is oil pressure sender unit test specifications from factory manual. This is for TB and TD engines, but I reckon its' the same for RB30 as well.
If not correct me.
Thanx

[dom14]

Oil Pressure Sender Repair - RB30 Patrol


Hey Guys,

This is what I did to repair the Oil Pressure Sender of my RB30 Patrol.

BTW, I have to say, all these were required simply because I went to the trouble of opening up the sealed oil pressure sender to see what the problem inside.
When I opened it up, the interior was working fine.
It's basically the piston that pushes on the variable resistor coil, which has been getting stuck due to oil gunk that's been stuck inside the piston bore as well as the walls.

So, the best and easiest way to get this oil pressure sender to work again is to,

1)Spray carby cleaner or something similar from the oil entry hole and shake and shake off all the oil inside. Few high pressure sprays and few strong shakes will be required.

2) Attach a vacuum cleaner to the oil entry hole and suck all the gunk that's been stuck inside the bore over years.

Above two deeds alone will give new life back to your Oil Pressure Sender. The key is to remove all the oil grime inside the bore and walls. Once that's done, your old oil pressure sender will spring back to life. No more funny oil pressure readings on the dial on the dashboard.

All the trouble I went through wont' be necessary at all. I had to tear it down in order to understand the interior as well to investigate any possible electrical or mechanical issues inside.

New Oil Pressure Sender is sold for silly $130 or more. Even though it's a critical part of the engine oil warning system, fixing it like this when you can, makes sense to me.
And not to mention, it's damn fun exercise.

Cheers

P.S. Special thanks to Yendor(Rodney) for feeding me plenty of knowledge to understand the workings of this thing.

[dom14]

How to burp a radiator

Hey guys,
This is the setup I use to 'burp' a radiator.
All the thanks go to Mudnut(Craig).
I use the same setup to test for combustion gas leakage as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK8SlMC1DUI&feature=youtu.be

[CaptainNewman]

Hi Dom,
RE: Oil Pressure Sender Repair
How did you go about removing the sender from the block? I know its in a rubbish spot (next to the oil filter, right?)... Hands, monkey grips, filter wrench, stilson... !?
Cheers,
Chris

[dom14]

Hi Dom,
RE: Oil Pressure Sender Repair
How did you go about removing the sender from the block? I know its in a rubbish spot (next to the oil filter, right?)... Hands, monkey grips, filter wrench, stilson... !?
Cheers,
Chris

Hi mate,
Use a 17mm spanner. It's a tight fit, so I had to heat up the middle of spanner and bend it.
I used a LPG burner torch. You can also use an outdoor bbq burner. Attach the spanner to bench vice etc and then hit one end.
If you try to bend it without heating it is like to cause it to break.
Or if you have an arc welder, you can cut/break the spanner from the middle and weld it back in a bent shape.
Also grind the spanner fork ends to make it thinner, so it will go behind the sender unit easily.
So, basically you are making a tool.:)
You might be able to get in there with a short 17mm spanner if you have a one, without having to do all the above.
Give it a try. I used an el cheapo 17mm spanner to do the above, which I bought as a kit.

[mudnut]

I finally checked the economy since I had the headers fitted, the head plained, the carby heater grid removed, and disabled the Pre-Heat Flap diaphragm (warmer months only).

I got 13.4 lt/100km highway driving and 15.11 for light duty four wheeling. As a bonus for the extra ponies gained, it should only take 23500 km of highway driving to recoup the cost of the headers.

[Throbbinhood]

I finally checked the economy since I had the headers fitted, the head plained, the carby heater grid removed, and disabled the Pre-Heat Flap diaphragm (warmer months only).

I got 13.4 lt/100km highway driving and 15.11 for light duty four wheeling. As a bonus for the extra ponies gained, it should only take 23500 km of highway driving to recoup the cost of the headers.

Hey mate, great figures. Can I ask what accessories you've got (tyres/barwork/auto-man/roof rack/winch/draws)? I get 15 on the highway which I'm happy with (on 35s, winch+front bar, draws with 150kg tools, 2 passengers and heaps of camping gear. no roofrack. manual).

[mudnut]

2' lift and a winch mounted in a 10mm steel cradle behind the nissan alloy bar. I have also taken most of the recovery gear from out of the back, which helps.

[mudnut]

This was a pleasant surprise for me and also the mechanic. He expected a moderate power gain from installing headers but not a 10% increase. The torque curve has flattened out significantly as well. So now my rb30 has a better rev range than a tb42, nearly the same economy of a td42 and is cheaper to repair and service as well. :Yahoo!:

[mudnut]

Stage one of waterproofing the engine. I have made an Oil dip stick clip to hold the stick in place when submerged.

I cut and bent into shape a piece of spring steel from a window wiper to serve as the clip and anchored it using two small hose clamps.

Although a slightly wider piece of spring steel would hold the dip stick in place better, it now takes three to four times the amount of force to pull the stick out so I am happy with that.

[Throbbinhood]

That's brilliant. I've never thought of the stick pushing out, though mine doesn't take much effort to remove at all. The seal is good, and I looked at a new one from Nissan and by looks my seal hadn't deteriorated. I've often wandered if there was a way to create a tighter seal, but was told that the dipstick area was pressurized anyway, as long as the motor kept running it was all good. Can anyone confirm this?

[mudnut]

The PCV valve should keep the sump pressure at a minimum, but as the engine wears air blows by the rings and maybe the exhaust valve guides so the pressure rises, especially when decelerating.

[Throbbinhood]

Interesting. I guess I better start bending a window wiper!

[Patrol'n]

This was a pleasant surprise for me and also the mechanic. He expected a moderate power gain from installing headers but not a 10% increase. The torque curve has flattened out significantly as well. So now my rb30 has a better rev range than a tb42, nearly the same economy of a td42 and is cheaper to repair and service as well. :Yahoo!:

Do you have a free flow exhaust fitted as well?

My RB30 has headers, but the exhaust note is super quiet, so I wonder if upgrading the exhaust would get any more power out of my truck or not.

[mudnut]

Do you have a free flow exhaust fitted as well?,

No, the pong box is in pretty good nick, so it will have to wait. I did ask the dyno bloke if it was worth fitting one, and he reckons it wouldn't gain any worthwhile ponies extra for the cost.
The engine is quite a lot louder with the headers anyway and I don't want the Old Trol to stand out too much, either.

[dom14]

Really good info on the oil pressure sender, Dom. Keep it up, people. I reckon we should split this thread up into sub sections to make it easier to read.

Cool, thanx. I've also noticed few fresh questions posted on this thread by few blokes instead of starting a fresh thread for that.
Yeah, it's definitely a good time to organize this thread into sub sections. I'm not sure whether this forum engine can facilitate that. If it can, that will be great. If there's a way to embed hyperlinks at the start of this thread pointing at sub sections(different relevant post numbers in this thread) would be pretty helpful. If that's not possible, a new stick thread with "RB30 facts and figures extended" or something similar would be good.

Also requesting guys not to post new questions in this thread, but rather post them on a separate thread and then post the valuable information from those threads into this thread(as I've been doing) would be really helpful to keep this thread clean and easy to locate any required information.

Cheers
Dom

[mudnut]

These are the upper components of the Thermal Vacuum Valve (TVV). It is positioned next to the yellow arrow which points to the cooling system bleed screw in the second picture. You access the valve by simply unscrewing the valve cap.

As posted by Dom, this valve is open to atmosphere while the engine is cold. It stops the vacuum feed to the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor so that the engine timing remains retarded. It also affects the operation of the EGR valve until the engine is warm.

Once the engine coolant reaches a pre-determined temperature, the valve closes and the vacuum advance is allowed to operate normally.

I found that the components were caked in fine dust, which is sucked into the valve.

I will endeavour to work out a way of stopping water and mud from sitting in the valve intake. I also want to filter the air which is sucked into it. I think raising the intake via a hose to a cheap fuel filter next to the diff breathers will be an easy solution.

You may have noticed that my TVV has a hose clamp around the base. It there because I accidently snapped off the bottom hose barb while bleeding the air from the cooling system. The hose clamp holds a 3/16 15mm long pop rivet on as a replacement.

The hose clamp has a hole drilled through it to hold the rivet and I used silicon to seal the rivet to the valve body, (I was very careful not to get any silicon into the valve).

[mudnut]

This is the TVV with an old distributor lead as a connector. I have stripped out the High Tension lead and used a hose clamp to secure the rubber to the valve cap. I have glued a piece of vacuum hose into it and ran it up to the firewall, next the diff breathers.
I used a cheap in-line fuel filter with the inlet pointing down to stop water from entering.

[mudnut]

This is the TVV inlet filter, cable tied to the breathers. All up to do the mod it cost just under $20. I haven't gained much height from the original position, but at least water, mud and dust shouldn't enter the engine via the valve.

[CaptainNewman]

CARBY REBUILD: Had my carby rebuilt and set-up yesterday by an experienced bloke. Had done 320,000kms so time for a freshen up. The Patrol ran fine, smashed other 4bys on the sand... but niggly problems constantly running lean, wouldn't idle until fully warmed up, stalled after braking down hills etc. The full gamut.

PROBABLY THE BEST $300 I've spent on the car yet!!! Its almost a different vehicle hahaha! Idle's 10000000 times smoother, quieter, perkier acceleration, lots more low end torque and can slide around corners at 3,000rpm. The bloke said it had a blocked idle jet... so no more cold idle or weird vacuum problems either.

Wish I'd done it sooner. Just waiting to see how fuel economy turns out (previously 14L/100 fully loaded highway)...

[Patrol'n]

CARBY REBUILD: Had my carby rebuilt and set-up yesterday by an experienced bloke. Had done 320,000kms so time for a freshen up. The Patrol ran fine, smashed other 4bys on the sand... but niggly problems constantly running lean, wouldn't idle until fully warmed up, stalled after braking down hills etc. The full gamut.

PROBABLY THE BEST $300 I've spent on the car yet!!! Its almost a different vehicle hahaha! Idle's 10000000 times smoother, quieter, perkier acceleration, lots more low end torque and can slide around corners at 3,000rpm. The bloke said it had a blocked idle jet... so no more cold idle or weird vacuum problems either.

Wish I'd done it sooner. Just waiting to see how fuel economy turns out (previously 14L/100 fully loaded highway)...

Ok that's it, I've been thinking about having mine done for a while now, that's sold it for me, I'm getting mine done!

Mine also runs great, although a little thirstier (could be my driving), but it's done about 340,000 so maybe I'll get a bit better power / acceleration, can never have too much of that :-)

Where'd you get yours done?

[mudnut]

This is an alternator conversion thread posted by Dom.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37119-Alternator-Upgrade-Guide-for-RB30-Patrol

[sangersanger]

This is an absolutely amazing thread. Thank you @mudnut!

[dom14]

This is the link to an RB30 Patrol Auto Choke problem that I've come across and fixed.
I think it will be useful to anybody with RB30 Patrol, if not any vehicle.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37464-Auto-Chok-Weird-problem&p=680534#post680534

Auto Choke - Weird problem

Vehicle - RB30 Patrol/carby

Hey Guys,
It took me some good time to work out the reason behind the auto choke failure.
For a while now, the auto choke flaps weren't opening when the engine's warm enough, obviously costing me
extra fuel every time I drive it, as well as performance issues.
I checked the power to the socket that takes the +12V to the auto choke heater unit, and it was fine. I checked the auto choke relay prior to that, and it was fine as well.

The real culprit was as in the pictures.
I has been eluding me for a while.
I wonder how many dodgy wires/connectors in the old wiring of the vehicle are like that, giving me all sort of trouble.

I gota similar problem with the Fuel Pump Control Unit which appears to be working only intermittently. I'm guessing it's a similar kinda issue.

[dom14]

This is the link to "RB30 Patrol Auto Choke function with schematics" thread I just created.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37466-RB30-Patrol-Auto-Choke-function-with-schematics#post680567

RB30 Patrol Auto Choke function with schematics

Hey Guys,

Here I documented the way the auto choke system work on an RB30 Patrol.
I guess it's quite similar on other vehicles as well

[dom14]

Fitting R31 Skyline starter on RB30 Patrol

Nissan R31 Skyline starter motor = RB30 Patrol starter motor

These two starter motors are interchangeable

Mechanically the R31 starter fits to RB30 Patrol perfectly.
However, the starter solenoid connector is different.

The way I fixed that issue was by wiring a brand new wire with a matching connector for the
R31 starter. I left the original Patrol starter solenoid connector plug/socket as it is.
The reason for that is that I can use both starters without having to fiddle with wiring or connectors when ever the need arrives(as one starter suddenly dies or I kill it by cranking on gear to get the car moving in a situation where I can't start the engine)

The starter solenoid wire from the starter solenoid connector plug is coloured black with a yellow stripe.
Follow that wire upward and it joins the plug/socket board next to the battery.
From there, you can tap a new wire to it by clearing the a bit of the wire and soldering it.
In my case, I didn't have to do too much other than opening up a tap that was already there and using solder
to join the new wire. The old joint was to get the ignition key power to LPG cold start solenoid(so the
cold start solenoid only activates when cranking)

I discovered that the R31 starter is way better than the stock stater(or rather the rebuilt replacement from the auto sparky)
R31 starter turns faster and has lot more grunt than the $200 rebuilt stock replacement from the auto sparky.
And not to mention R31 starter only cost me $25 including postage.
If I knew this earlier, I could've saved $175 and get a better starter delivered to my door step.

The reason for me to have a second starter is as a backup for long treks.

[dom14]

How I fixed the exhaust leaks on manifold & flange surface

Below is the link to the above thread.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37481-How-I-fixed-the-exhaust-leaks-on-manifold-amp-flange-surface&p=680797&posted=1#post680797

[dom14]

How to adjust the potentiometer of the RB30 dashboard speedo unit to adjust speedometer

The above subject was discussed in this thread.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37450-RB30-standard-4-3-31-quot-What-ratio-for-33&p=680962&posted=1#post680962

[dom14]

How to fix a jammed horn switch(RB30 Patrol, but may be the same with other GQ's as well)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37533-What-s-wrong-with-this-horn&p=682404&posted=1#post682404

You can also cut few pieces of kitchen sponge cloth and glue it to the metal plate(the one with polyps), in between "polyps".Probably a quicker fix than the craftsmanship that I went for as above. Bit of trial and error with few pieces and add more as you go should work.

I've been suggested the below by the member "GeeYou8". I believe it's a better option for the material.

"A better choice might be the thin foam they put under floating floors, a hollow punch or wad punch will make nice neat round holes."

[dom14]

How to remove the RB30 starter motor

Tools:
14mm socket with longest extensions from the tool kit and the universal joint and ratchet.
14mm wrench/spanner.


Disconnect battery negative terminal
Disconnect the solenoid wire terminal to the starter
Unplug/disconnect the trigger wire to the starter
If it's RB30 EFI converted engine then there're more connectors to disconnect, so disconnect all of them.



Outside bolt is easily accessible from under the vehicle with the 14mm spanner/wrench
Inside one is hiding between the block and the starter motor, so you need to slide in the 14mm socket
attached extension under the inlet manifold from the front of the engine and use the ratchet to undo.
This is done by feeling rather than seeing, 'cos it's not that easy to see the bolt behind the starter.
Universal joint for the socket extension may be required at the ratchet end to get the access angle right.

Starter may drop after undoing the bolts so preparing for that may be necessary.

Overall, it's fairly easy and quick job to undo and fit the RB30 Patrol starter.
The bolts are usually not that tight to undo, unless somebody over tightened them previously.
However, I recommend using a six point hex socket, rather than a common 12 point bi-hex socket.

Also be careful not to cross thread any of the bolts or else it will be big trouble due to the location.
Hand tighten the bolts before using wrench/spanner/ratchet.

This is not a bolt we can afford to accidentally end up rounding bolt head or damaging the thread of the hole. :)

I'll add couple of pictures later.

[dom14]

How to install Universal Joints


I documented the process in this thread as well as all the dramas & precautions related to the installation in another thread.
All the links are in the main thread.

RB30 Patrol(or any vehicle) Universal Joint(s) Replacement (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37586-RB30-Patrol-Rear-Universal-Joint-Replacement&p=683008&viewfull=1#post683008)


Below is the thread I opened up to deal with all the dramas I had while installing the uni joint.
It's a pretty handy thread for anybody to go through before installing a uni joint for the first time, as I've documented all the mishaps with detailed photos.

New Uni Joint is too tight (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37624-New-Uni-Joint-is-too-tight)

[dom14]

RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints - Hyperlinks to specific areas of the thread.


Fuel Return Solenoid (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516849&viewfull=1#post516849)

Fuel Pump Control Unit(FPCU) (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516867&viewfull=1#post516867)

Engine can't achieve high revs (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516873&viewfull=1#post516873)

Engine coolant drain plug (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=516873&viewfull=1#post516873)

Speedo Problems and Adjustment (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=517401&viewfull=1#post517401)

Ignition Auto Advance Vacuum Diaphragm (Poor Performance and Fuel Economy ). (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=517414&viewfull=1#post517414)

Testing for a blown head gasket (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=537609&viewfull=1#post537609)

Air Intake Pre-heat assembly fitted to a stock RB30S (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=579399&viewfull=1#post579399)

Reasons for Backfiring (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=593711&viewfull=1#post593711)

Heater core blockage cleaning method on a GQ Patrol (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=614460&viewfull=1#post614460)

instrument panel circuit for an RB30S (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=593746&viewfull=1#post593746)

RB30 Patrol(or any vehicle) Universal Joint(s) Replacement (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37586-RB30-Patrol-Rear-Universal-Joint-Replacement&p=683008&viewfull=1#post683008)

RB30 Vacuum line diagram and related components (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=615203&viewfull=1#post615203)

RB30 Patrol Coolant flow diagram(s) (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=694398&viewfull=1#post694398)

RB30-TB42 Nikki carby tuning procedure(temporary) (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=703286&viewfull=1#post703286)

Carburetor lean/rich diagnostics (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=703430&viewfull=1#post703430)

A useful modification after snorkel installation (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=699641&viewfull=1#post699641)

Fan Clutch test (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints&p=697544&viewfull=1#post697544)

[dom14]

RB30 Patrol Coolant flow diagram(s)

These are the diagram(s) of RB30 Patrol coolant flow. The second one is taken out of R31 Skyline(RB30 engine) coolant flow diagram and slightly modified to suit RB30 Patrol(carby) engine. Green indicates cooler water(low pressure) while the red indicates warmer water(high pressure) by the colour of the arrows.

Below is the link to the thread that lead me to investigate the coolant flow of the RB30 Patrol.

Coolant is Still Running too Cold (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?38116-Coolant-is-still-running-too-cold)

[dom14]

I'm quoting below post from another forum. It's about how to diagnose a fan clutch for any issues.

Fan Clutch test

First, lets discuss what the fan clutch does and why it is there. The fan clutch is just what the name says, it is a mechanism that will clutch the fan on and off depending on the need for more or less cooling air to flow thru the radiator. It is a thermostatically controlled device that when operating normally will vary the fan speed independently of the engine speed. When cruising down the road at freeway speeds, with outside temperature less then desert conditions, the fan should be merely be idling along, turning just fast enough to add a little air flow when needed, in this way the fan noise and drag on the engine is greatly reduced. When reducing speed, the fan clutch will sense higher temperatures thru the radiator and “clutch up” thereby increasing the fan speed to help maintain constant engine temperature. It may in fact, cycle as the temperature of the air thru the radiator changes depending on airflow. If the fan clutch operation is normal, when first starting the car, the fan clutch should “clutch up” and an increase in noise and airflow should be obvious. After about 60-90 seconds, the fan will un-clutch and the noise and airflow will drop. The fan will continue to turn but at a much reduced speed. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens to regulate the temperature, the air thru the radiator gets hotter and the clutch will sense this, thereby increasing the speed of the fan to maintain a normal operating temperature.
First signs of trouble:
A normal temperature indication at freeway speeds and an increasing temperature as the vehicle slows is one of the first indications of trouble. Many other things may give this indication but if the temperature seems to be stable at speeds but climbs in traffic or while stopped, this is a good indication that the fan clutch isn’t working correctly. As the temperature continues to climb, the auxiliary electric fan should start but may not provide enough air to keep the engine from overheating.
Another sign of trouble is if the fan noise is high and never decreases after starting, and is there anytime the engine RPM is higher then idle, this means that the fan clutch is “frozen” and is not releasing. Although this will not result in immediately serious trouble, it will load the engine continually and gas MPG will be reduced. Load on the fan belt(s) will be higher and shorten the life of that component also.
Fan modifications:
It has been suggested that other models of BMW fans can be substituted to reduce the noise and load of the fan. This is NOT recommended! If the fan clutch is working properly, there should be no need to replace with a lesser fan. The noise and load of the fan should only be there when it is “clutched up” and the fan speed needed to keep that big V-12 cool. BMW designed it this way and it is never a good idea to alter the cooling system and in particular where alloy engines would be effected.
Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.

1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)

2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.

3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.

4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be carefull, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.

Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.

[mudnut]

After having fitted a Safari Snorkel, which connects to the standard dust separator, I have found some leaks in the system. A bit of silicon sealed the diaphragm housing.

The pre-heat flap was sucking a bit of air so using copper-based silicon, I glued a brass reducer that uses a brass plug, into the filter housing elbow. As you can see in the pictures below, it also fits into the stove pipe so appears stock.

This gives me the ability to take the plug out for the colder months. The reducer and plug only cost $5.40

[dom14]

Oil Blow by from rocker cover gasket - The Fix

I used Permatex Ultra Grey. I ffilled the groove on the rocker cover edge with the sealant
and squeezed in the rubber gasket. Then I also applied a layer of sealant on the cylinder head edge where rocker cover sits. I left it for about an hour to cure partially and get "tacky".
Then I fitted it and left it for couple of days to cure properly before starting the engine.

This is the link for Permatex Ultra Grey deal on ebay(pretty good deal).

Permatex Ultra Grey 2 for the price of one (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-TUBS-of-PERMATEX-ULTRA-GREY-ENGINE-GASKET-MAKER-RTV-SILICONE-99G-IN-EACH-TUB-/191785551094?hash=item2ca74f44f6:g:pMoAAOSwFqJWnJE q)

[dom14]

RB30-TB42 Nikki carby tuning procedure(temporary)

Below tuning procedure is from repair manual.

[dom14]

Carburetor lean/rich diagnostics

Above tuning procedure only tunes the AFR at idle rpms(hence the reason it's called "idle mixture screw")

Above idle rpms, jets, airbleeds & accelerator pump, etc takes more control of the AFR.
Therefore, if the symptoms of "bad tuning"(see below for the list) continues, then the carby may need a rebuild.
Before rebuilding a carby, it's IMPORTANT to rule out any electrical issues that may be causing issues with the carby.
These include petrol pump issues, weak or broken connections with the wires/connectors to petrol pump or the solenoids that control the valves inside the carby.

Symptoms of Lean and Rich

Here are some basic symptoms, some duplicate

Lean

Reduced Power - Sluggish at certain RPM's. Wide open throttle yields no power. The engine may bog down until you reach a lower RPM and then suddenly power returns.
2)Difficulty Starting
3)Spark plugs are clean - No residue. Insulator may be white.
4)Runs better at higher altitudes - AFR becomes normalized due to reduced atmospheric pressure allowing fuel into the venturi easier.
5)Backfires - Popping on deceleration for a lean idle circuit or backfires in general.
6)Runs on choke - The vehicle may run on choke when it's warm but stalls if the choke is turned off.
7)Idles poorly - Fluctuations in idle RPM, stalling
8)Engine runs hot - Due to more oxygen than fuel combustion temperatures are hotter reflecting on a temp gauge.
9)Hanging idle - The engine idles high and then drops and stalls. Typically a lean condition caused by an air leak between the butterfly and the head or a vacuum line that is not attached.
10)Sharp Odor - The exhaust smell may be sharp and burn your nose. This is NOx or Nitrogen Oxide. It's created by high temperatures in the combustion process between nitrogen and oxygen. Although NOx is present in all exhaust it can be more pronounced in higher combustion temperatures associated with lean conditions with more oxygen. More oxygen=higher burn temp

Rich

1)Reduced Power - It has less power but seems to be OK and runs.
2)Reduced Fuel Mileage - Your using more fuel per cycle so your mileage becomes worse.
3)Rough Idle - Combustion takes a just a bit longer with more fuel and at lower RPM's the engine can idle rough. Unlike a miss-fire on a spark plug this idle seems fine if the idle is turned up just a bit.
4)Spark Plugs Black - Carbon buildup on insulator and electrodes of plug. Wipes off your finger as sooty and back. Carbon is a conductor of electricity and getting considerable carbon buildup from a rich condition with ground the inner electrode down the positive insulator. When this condition occurs there will be no spark. You can clean the sparkplug with carburetor cleaner and re-use.
5)Exhaust Exit is Black and Sooty - Excessive carbon buildup in the exhaust is thick and overly grimy. A properly jetted carburetor will leave a nice grey scale color in the end of the exhaust pipe.
6)Odor of unburned fuel - In cases of a very, very rich mixture you may smell some unburned fuel coming out of your exhaust. This could be due to a grounded out sparkplug from too much carbon buildup preventing the combustion process in a cylinder or so much fuel that combustion is not occurring.
7)Runs better with more air - If you remove your air filter and the engine begins to run a bit better with more oxygen in the mix it is likely you have a rich condition.
8)Runs worse at altitude - If the bike starts to run worse at higher altitude with reduced oxygen, it's likely a rich condition.
9)Black Smoke - If you have black exhaust when you rev it, it's rich. You can get a light colored rag and place it over the exhaust lightly and rev it to see if you get carbon/black residue on the rag.

Sources(meant for motorbikes, but the principles are the same) :
symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings (http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle)
lean-vs-rich/ (http://www.randakksblog.com/lean-vs-rich/)

[dom14]

RB30 Patrol Fuel Plumbing Diagram


This is a diagram and the related actual pictures of the RB30 Patrol fuel plumbing system.

[dom14]

Photo bomb No 2

[dom14]

Photos of tank end. This is not the factory tank, but a LRA(Long Range Automotive) made custom "long range" tank(only holds 68 litres). However, the connections/plumbing to the tank are the same afaik. The in tank pump/sender is the factory one from the original main tank.

[dom14]

Petrol pump modification/redundancy pump/Aftermarket External Replacement pump(RB30)

This is how I added an external redundant fuel pump for my RB30 Patrol.(For carby model, not EFI)
I did this after encountering possible few issues with the in tank stock pump.
Replacement pump for the in tank stock pump was around $130, and I thought it's bit too dear.
This external pump is around $20(including postage). Fuel pumping pressure is around 3-4psi, so it's low pressure pumping
that is required for the RB30 Patrol(factory carby model).

This is the pump I used.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-AU-/131318770921?hash=item1e93356ce9&_uhb=1&rmvSB=true

I tested the pump and it works pretty well. I fitted it onto the chassis above the tank, very close to original pump plumbing. I attached the supply line from this external pump to long enough fuel hose and wire tied it to the chassis to attach to the petrol supply line, in case in tank pump fails in future.(in tank pump turned out to be ok). +12V and earth connections were tapped from the original connections to the in tank pump & I put an accessible switch to turn on the external pump, when or if it needed in the future.

The pickup plumbing line for the external pump was created out of redundant line on the stock pump assembly.(pictures attached). I also added a fuel strainer for the tank & attached both pump pickup hoses to the same strainer.


P.S.
Even though, I installed the above external pump as a redundancy, it's also a good and cheaper external replacement pump in place of the factory in tank pump. It may even be possible to install the above external pump without having to totally drop the tank.
(Removing rear fittings of the tank and removing the rear driveshaft can help with that).

The only issue is that the internal pickup hose need to be installed in order to be able to pump the petrol from the tank. So, in tank pump/sender assembly removal is still necessary.

[dom14]

Below is the link to the above thread.

RB30 Patrol FPCU(Fuel Pump Control Unit) modified replacement (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?38786-RB30-Patrol-FPCU(Fuel-Pump-Control-Unit)-modifed-replacement&p=703694#post703694)

[mudnut]

I have very carefully cut a small angled slot in the bottom of the cooling system bleed screw.

I only cut the slot to about half way through the screw so the air would rise up and out.

I made real sure the edges of the cut were filed so as not to interfere with the thread.

The bleed screw is shown by the yellow arrow.

I hope this will make bleeding of the cooling system easier, because I nearly dropped the screw after I undid it too far.

The slot should allow the threads to grip, while letting air escape.

I forgot to cut the slot while I had the system draining.

After filling and burping the system I waited until the next day so the system was cool.

I only lost a few drops of coolant with the screw out.

[Patrol'n]

Hey blokes,

I'm trying to sort out a couple of small items, main one right now is that she is running rich, and using a fair bit more fuel than usual (although it seems ok when driving), it mainly seems very rich at idle.

I don't have an afr gauge, but I have adjusted the idle to where it seems happiest, best idle speed and driving performance etc. and doesn't seem to blow any fuel smoke when revving.

Air filter is not too dirty, timing is at about 15 degrees from what I can see, Carbie was rebuilt professionally last year. In addition I have checked the auto choke operation as per photos below.

716307163171632

Photos show the alignment of the choke, the butterfly when cold and after reaching normal temp. I can take it to the fella who rebuilt the carb for me but I do like fixing stuff myself.

Any ideas what to look for / at to track the problem down?

[mudnut]

Dom's Post #99 and this link should help you.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?37466-RB30-Patrol-Auto-Choke-function-with-schematics#post680567

Page 4A-7 in the Haynes manual deals with the auto choke.

[mudnut]

An update on Fuel economy. The Old Trol achieved 15.94 lt/100km almost fully loaded and towing my small camp trailer. I sat at roughly 95-100kmh in 4th gear, and the engine ran all day long at 2800-3000 rpm. Even with the weeping radiator the temp remained at around the third way up the gauge, so I am happy with the overall performance of this little engine.

[dom14]

An update on Fuel economy. The Old Trol achieved 15.94 lt/100km almost fully loaded and towing my small camp trailer. I sat at roughly 95-100kmh in 4th gear, and the engine ran all day long at 2800-3000 rpm. Even with the weeping radiator the temp remained at around the third way up the gauge, so I am happy with the overall performance of this little engine.

Yep, that is pretty unreal, but I believe ya. It is over 6km/L with a heavily loaded troll.
No doubt it's a pretty damn good fuel economy you've produced above.
May be it has something to do with the excess temperature the engine's running atm?!

In mine, temperature gauge has never gone above half way, and when it does, I have an immediate hissy fit. :) ;)

I'm into the mission of getting the best fuel economy out of mine & tuning it for the best balance between performance & economy.
I'm going to have to stay in touch with you a fair bit. :D

[GQtdauto]

Geez that's good economy , didn't realise you could safely rev them that hard , had ours up to 90 rarely because of the high revs but did note better consumption at around 2800 and 85-90 Kay's .
As a matter of fact it's not long been serviced and is chewing more than that .

[mudnut]

The Dyno-guy told me, that the RB30 is designed to rev, rather than lug to produce its power. At 100km in 5th, the revs are a little above 2600rpm. The old 4 pot Magna was pretty close to 2800 to 3 grand at 100. I would've liked to sit at around 90kmh, but I had to reach the city before 1:30, so I didn't get trapped on the Ring road. (It was a parking lot anyway, and the average speed was around 5kmh). On the sand, I have no qualms with sitting on 4000 rpm for the soft stuff. The redline on these things is right up there at 5500 and up.

I run a heavier grade oil than specified, as well. 4th is the strongest gear and towing in 5th isn't recommended. I was cringing at the higher revs, but just relaxed after the first couple of hundred ks and let it do its thing.

[mudnut]

Yep, that is pretty unreal, but I believe ya. It is over 6km/L with a heavily loaded troll.
No doubt it's a pretty damn good fuel economy you've produced above.
May be it has something to do with the excess temperature the engine's running atm?!

In mine, temperature gauge has never gone above half way, and when it does, I have an immediate hissy fit. :) ;)

I'm into the mission of getting the best fuel economy out of mine & tuning it for the best balance between performance & economy.
I'm going to have to stay in touch with you a fair bit. :D

Remember, Dom, I have the headers fitted, blocked the preheat (for the warmer months only) and removed the heater grid under the carby. I also only run 31" tyres at 35psi.

[dom14]

Remember, Dom, I have the headers fitted, blocked the preheat (for the warmer months only) and removed the heater grid under the carby. I also only run 31" tyres at 35psi.

Yeah, I'm sure headers help, but I reckon it has lot to do with the good dyno tuneup as well.
I also think your carby is in tip top condition.

[Patrol'n]

I agree with Dom, it must be really well tuned!

Mine is actually running really nicely now, but at last fill it used about 22 litres per hundred...

Mind you, it has a highish rhino roof rack, something like 2 inches of lift... 32 inch aggressive AT tyres etc, but I still think it could do with a damn good tuneup based on those fuel figures

[mudnut]

The carby was rebuilt by the Dyno guy last year. Your roof rack acts like a boat anchor.

[Patrol'n]

how many litres per hundred do you think the roof rack would add? I always figured it would add drag, but I've always thought a litre or two per hundred... Maybe I've always been wrong. Lol, wouldn't be the first time

[mudnut]

Its hard to say, there is that and as you've written, running the larger tyres as well, will put a lot of pressure on the drive train. Remember sticking your hand out the window as a kid. There was quit a lot of wind resistance to push against at the 100kph. You are also having to accelerate that little bit harder with the weight of the roof rack, and steel bar bull bar, if you have one.

Did I also mention my camper is based on a small trailer?

[Patrol'n]

Yeah, steel bar, with winch, and long range fuel tank too. Cargo barrier, water tank, fridge and slide etc etc etc, probably not the lightest she's ever been.

I'm still thinking a good dyno tune couldn't hurt though, would love to get the consumption under 20 per hundred again.

[mudnut]

I take all of the recovery gear out for normal use as well. It makes a big difference, especially having to turn out onto our road. It gets to be a bit of squeak time with log trucks bowling down the hill at us. I only have the alloy bar with a 10mm steel winch cradle and a cheap Aldi winch..

[Patrol'n]

I've been thinking for a while I should chuck her on a weighbridge just for curiosity's sake. Do you know what yours weighs?

[mudnut]

Over 2200 at a guess. It is pretty close to stock.

[Patrol'n]

I reckon I'll weigh mine next week and see, be interesting if nothing else.

[Patrol'n]

A quick bit of info for the thread, I recently changed my fan, power steering and air con belts as the old ones were looking worn. Maybe everyone else with an RB30 already knows this, but just in case, here's what I learned.

The specs / part no. I have been told are 13A0890 belts for both power steering and air con, and for some RB30 fan belts while others are 13A0875. Mine is the 13A0875. I couldn't find out any way of identifying which it is without the old belt, but the 13A0890 was clearly too long when I tried fitting it to my car, it had almost no more adjustment after installation, let alone after it would have relaxed somewhat.

After changing the belts I had a horrible whine coming from the front of the motor. I repeatedly tried changing tension on the belts with no change. Changed the worn air con tensioner pulley bearing, and still no change. After isolating the noise to the fan belt, I suspected the replacement belt may be to blame so I bought another brand of belt and changed it over and... FIXED!

The other belt was the right size but still made a terrible noise. I now have Gates brand V belts on all three and it is quieter than before the belt change.

[dom14]

A quick bit of info for the thread, I recently changed my fan, power steering and air con belts as the old ones were looking worn. Maybe everyone else with an RB30 already knows this, but just in case, here's what I learned.

The specs / part no. I have been told are 13A0890 belts for both power steering and air con, and for some RB30 fan belts while others are 13A0875. Mine is the 13A0875. I couldn't find out any way of identifying which it is without the old belt, but the 13A0890 was clearly too long when I tried fitting it to my car, it had almost no more adjustment after installation, let alone after it would have relaxed somewhat.

After changing the belts I had a horrible whine coming from the front of the motor. I repeatedly tried changing tension on the belts with no change. Changed the worn air con tensioner pulley bearing, and still no change. After isolating the noise to the fan belt, I suspected the replacement belt may be to blame so I bought another brand of belt and changed it over and... FIXED!

The other belt was the right size but still made a terrible noise. I now have Gates brand V belts on all three and it is quieter than before the belt change.

Yeah, it may have something to do with nylon reinforcement material rubbing on the pulley groove edges. Some belts are better than the others.
I reckon something to do with V belt angle not properly matching the pulley groove angle & causing excess friction.
As you may remember, I upgraded the alternator using a EF Falcon alternator, but the belt was squeaking on and off. Even though I aligned the alternator pulley properly with the crank pulley & the tensioner pulley, it still keep doing that. As in your case, I reckon it's the pulley.
When it squeaks(mostly in winter), I just rub a tiny bit of grease on the side of the belt and the noise goes away. Not sure it's the right thing to do, but it does help. I keep the old spare one(which is still good) just in case it snaps.

[dom14]

I agree with Dom, it must be really well tuned!

Mine is actually running really nicely now, but at last fill it used about 22 litres per hundred...

Mind you, it has a highish rhino roof rack, something like 2 inches of lift... 32 inch aggressive AT tyres etc, but I still think it could do with a damn good tuneup based on those fuel figures

How did you go with your carby?
Did you try to tune it yourself or did you take it back to the guy who rebuilt it?

[mudnut]

Be wary of using ordinary grease on the rubber belt as it will cause the surface it coats to disintegrate. I now use a food-grade grease to coat the lip inside hoses before fitting them.

[dom14]

Be wary of using ordinary grease on the rubber belt as it will cause the surface it coats to disintegrate. I now use a food-grade grease to coat the lip inside hoses before fitting them.

Yeah mate. I'v heard that. That's why I keep the other one ready at the back of the vehicle all the time. :)

BTW, what is food grade grease? Vaseline? Or glycerine?
I have little bottle of vaseline somewhere.

[mudnut]

Dunno, just a food grade. Haven't really checked it out.

[Patrol'n]

How did you go with your carby?
Did you try to tune it yourself or did you take it back to the guy who rebuilt it?

At this stage I've tuned it myself, as I just haven't had the opportunity to take time off work to go see the fella who rebuilt it. I know what you mean about how dirty it looks, although I saw it when he put it on and it was really nice and clean looking and ran 100% spot on when he installed it.

I think it might still be a little rich, still to have a look at the plug and check in more detail, but it feels about right to drive

[Throbbinhood]

Unreal economy mudnut!

Definitely need a tune on yours Patrol'n, FWIW I got around 23L/100km fully loaded, with a kayak on the roof and towing a 1.5T camper trailer (That was running 35's too, back to 33's now but don't think it's made any difference). Oh and I was thrashing it because I'm an impatient turd lol.

[mudnut]

I also experienced the opposite side of the coin. I hit a big rainstorm past Port Fairy. Fighting a headwind and dodging sheets of water that fill the truck-made grooves in the road. It went up to 19ltrs/100 because I was up and down on the go pedal.

[dom14]

Dunno, just a food grade. Haven't really checked it out.

"food grade" means it can safely be eaten....sort of?!

[dom14]

At this stage I've tuned it myself, as I just haven't had the opportunity to take time off work to go see the fella who rebuilt it. I know what you mean about how dirty it looks, although I saw it when he put it on and it was really nice and clean looking and ran 100% spot on when he installed it.

I think it might still be a little rich, still to have a look at the plug and check in more detail, but it feels about right to drive

It's pretty easy to find out if it's running too rich by simply looking at the spark plug tips for traces of brand new soot.
Lean is bit tricky, but still can be spotted from spark plug tips by looking for whitish sort of residue, etc.

Ideally carbies can't be tuned properly on a bench, it's gota be fitted to the vehicle, as each engine's response can be different due to many factors like wear and tear, exhaust system, coolant system, etc etc.
So, if you take it back to the guy, take the whole vehicle and leave it with him.
It's even a not easy for an experienced guy to tune a carby by ear, so it will be quite a challenge for us mere mortals.

i know your carby is running on petrol, but still should look bit better than what I saw in picture after a not too distant past rebuild.
Perhaps, the kinda trekking you do might have something to do with it.

[mudnut]

I occasionally run the "better" hi octane petrol to try and flush out deposits that 91 RON seems to leave in the carby.

[Patrol'n]

Yep, she has seen more mud, red dirt, water crossings, overgrown tracks etc in the past three years than I think she ever had in her first 21 years... Before I started running a filter on the snorkel I was forever cleaning bits of tree, bugs and bees out of the air cleaner too, that and plenty of fill ups at country fuel stations. the outside of the carb needs a damn good clean, but I washed the engine bay and degreased the other day, and everything still looks grubby... Was so clean and shiny when I bought it! I'll hit the carb with some cleaner to see how it comes up, but when I get time I will definitely take the car and see the bloke who rebuilt it and see what he can find.

I run 98 whenever I can, as it does go better, but sometimes 91 is all that's available.

I might have a look at the spark to, since it's definitely still rich, inside the exhaust tip is black so I'll pull the plugs on the weekend and check the dizzy just in case, you never know I guess.

[dom14]

I occasionally run the "better" hi octane petrol to try and flush out deposits that 91 RON seems to leave in the carby.

BTW, 91RON has no colour now. Recently they stopped using the "red dye".
I think a carby cleaner added to fuel is a better approach to clean the carbies of the gunk from petrol.
I'm not sure how high octane petrol help clean the carby though.

[dom14]

Yep, she has seen more mud, red dirt, water crossings, overgrown tracks etc in the past three years than I think she ever had in her first 21 years... Before I started running a filter on the snorkel I was forever cleaning bits of tree, bugs and bees out of the air cleaner too, that and plenty of fill ups at country fuel stations. the outside of the carb needs a damn good clean, but I washed the engine bay and degreased the other day, and everything still looks grubby... Was so clean and shiny when I bought it! I'll hit the carb with some cleaner to see how it comes up, but when I get time I will definitely take the car and see the bloke who rebuilt it and see what he can find.

I run 98 whenever I can, as it does go better, but sometimes 91 is all that's available.

I might have a look at the spark to, since it's definitely still rich, inside the exhaust tip is black so I'll pull the plugs on the weekend and check the dizzy just in case, you never know I guess.

If the dizzy vacuum advance diaphragm has gone kaput, it will affect the smooth ignition.

[Patrol'n]

If the dizzy vacuum advance diaphragm has gone kaput, it will affect the smooth ignition.

Good stuff thanks mate, I will check that too

[mudnut]

Easy to check the advance. Just pop the vac hose off and listen for the change in revs. If no change, block the carby side of the hose with your finger, the engine will run smoother. That means the diaphragm is split or holed.

[Patrol'n]

Easy to check the advance. Just pop the vac hose off and listen for the change in revs. If no change, block the carby side of the hose with your finger, the engine will run smoother. That means the diaphragm is split or holed.

Get the engine up to operating temp first I believe?

[Patrol'n]

Well I dropped past the auto shop yesterday and picked up a new timing light that actually works, unlike my old one, so have had a bit of a tinker.

First of all, I tried taking off the vacuum hose, no change in revs. Blocked the vac advance and no change in the way the engine ran. So now I have my new light, I checked the timing and found it was actually at about 20 degrees advanced, so I adjusted that back to bang on 15 degrees with the vacuum advance hose connected. I then checked the timing with revving to around 2500-3000rpm, the timing moved smoothly up to around 30 degrees or so, just past the last timing mark, and then back to 15 degrees once the revs dropped back.

The engine runs better for sure and also starts more easily with the timing back to 15 degrees.

Based on the above, I figure the vac advance is functioning correctly, does that sound right?

[Throbbinhood]

Are you running gas or PULP? I don't have the manual in front of me, is factory timing 5 degrees? Can't remember what I've set mine at haha.

[Patrol'n]

Are you running gas or PULP? I don't have the manual in front of me, is factory timing 5 degrees? Can't remember what I've set mine at haha.

I only ever run 98 octane unless I'm somewhere that only has normal unleaded. (In which case it will ping a bit)... Mine has never been gas converted, I've had 2 cars on gas, 1 converted and 1 factory. The factory one wasn't bad, but the converted one had some issues, plus I run my 147 litre tank and aim to install another 70 odd litre aux tank soon for more range (yeah I know, old petrol 4wd so no range really, LOL), so gas isn't on my list of mods.

My manual says the factory timing is 5 degrees or so without the vac advance pipe attached, and 15 with it attached, which is what I was referring to with the timing settings above.

[mudnut]

FUEL TANK BREATHER

Doh! How silly am I. Have had problems with the fuel tank having a vacuum created as the fuel is used. Put it in the too hard basket for a while. I read recently that a vacuum created in a fuel tank is not a good thing, as it flexes the tank in a way it is not designed for. This can cause it to crack. Got off my lazy bum to have a look at it today and I found that the breather for a '94 is in the fuel cap.

I did the test as set out in the FE section of the workshop manual (EF & EC page 44). It says to check that the operation of the vacuum relief valve, which is in the cap. To test: suck on the cap and there should be a click, or valve noise. It also says that if it is blocked, to replace it

I found that it was blocked, so being a tight wad, just whacked the shop vac on the cap and turned it on.

Amazingly it worked and now the valve acts as it should, and lets air in and none out.

[mudnut]

Some rather sad news for my RB30. The small plate, or washer behind the timing sprocket on the crank has stripped out and is eating into the crank. The only fix is a new crank, but probably cheaper to get a whole engine. This is just a mongrel thing that the mechanic who changed out the timing belt has caused about 30,000ks ago. It is such a shame as the motor is running as sweet as.

[dom14]

Some rather sad news for my RB30. The small plate, or washer behind the timing sprocket on the crank has stripped out and is eating into the crank. The only fix is a new crank, but probably cheaper to get a whole engine. This is just a mongrel thing that the mechanic who changed out the timing belt has caused about 30,000ks ago. It is such a shame as the motor is running as sweet as.

mudnut
Craig, I'm not 100% sure about this, but can you please post a close up picture of that scoring on the crank?

What exactly is the problem with that scoring? Oil seal failure?
If that's the case, you may be able to sleeve it and use it as normal thereafter.

Changing the engine or the crank sounds bit too drastic from my end, but I'm not standing right in front of your engine looking straight at it, so you would know how bad it is, better.

[dom14]

Some rather sad news for my RB30. The small plate, or washer behind the timing sprocket on the crank has stripped out and is eating into the crank. The only fix is a new crank, but probably cheaper to get a whole engine. This is just a mongrel thing that the mechanic who changed out the timing belt has caused about 30,000ks ago. It is such a shame as the motor is running as sweet as.

The other things that puzzles me is that how a mechanic get something like that wrong. There are two plates. One goes behind the crank gear and the other in front. They both have keys, and have to go through the key on the crankshaft end and then you can turn them either way, which wouldn't matter afaict. How it ate into the crank is something that puzzles me, unless the mechanic is a totally hopeless fella who chose the wrong trade.

[dom14]

These are the photos of the crank gear & the two thin plates that goes at front and back of it, from late 2015 when I did my timing belt kit. Basically the plates+crank gear should snugly fit onto to the crankshaft end in front of the seal when the harmonic balancer is inserted and tightened with the pulley bolt.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CKOqHLOjIIpkA6P62

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ni83tMzrAniqAwdl1

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bCOaF1Bb0DnOR08S2


So, you can see there is a slight protrusion out of the crank shaft for back plate+crank gear to touch, so they don't grind on the crankshaft oil seal. I'm guessing the reasons for your drama might be a loose harmonic balancer bolt or the crankshaft key wear or something along those lines???!!!

[dom14]

Some rather sad news for my RB30. The small plate, or washer behind the timing sprocket on the crank has stripped out and is eating into the crank. The only fix is a new crank, but probably cheaper to get a whole engine. This is just a mongrel thing that the mechanic who changed out the timing belt has caused about 30,000ks ago. It is such a shame as the motor is running as sweet as.

mudnut, can't send any PMs to you. It's houseful. :)

[mudnut]

The washer/plate closest to the engine oil seal has let go and stripped out. A mechanic has said it is caused by the other mechanic not torquing up the harmonic balancer quite enough.

I have just put the whole thing together until I can get. I can afford a fix.

Pics will have to wait until I can talk to the dyno guy, as he builds engines as well.

[mudnut]

One fix I have thought of is to drill and weld the plate to the sprocket and get it machined to be centred.

My inbox has now been cleared.

[dom14]

The washer/plate closest to the engine oil seal has let go and stripped out. A mechanic has said it is caused by the other mechanic not torquing up the harmonic balancer quite enough.

I have just put the whole thing together until I can get. I can afford a fix.

Pics will have to wait until I can talk to the dyno guy, as he builds engines as well.

Hey Craig,
Below specifically applies to Diesel engine's and particularly the RD28.
The harmonic balancer bolt may be kinda TTY(torque to yield) and when it's been re-used over and over(tightened and loosened too many times as in my case), retightening it after a while may be important. I honestly don't know if this is the case with RB30, but I took no chances and make sure to chekc and retighten the bolt after few days and again after a month or so and then quarterly or so.
Other solution is to replace with a new bolt(which we don't know how good it is unless it's genuine Nissan one).
I reuse the headbolts which are TTY, so I make sure to retighten the headbolts(definitely this time after dramas from last time).

Are you saying the protrusion on the crank has been ground to the point the crank gear is grinding on the seal/seal housing?
If that's the case, driving is not good obviously. Plate is there to protect the crank gear from happening that as well as a balancing shim between the cam gear and crank gear I reckon.

When I tightened the harmonic balancer bolt late last month, I gave it quite a tightening with a breaker bar while the crank is locked by putting the gearbox into first gear(not sure if it's the right way but that's the only way I could do 'cos no room to squeeze in the type of rattle gun I have).


So, how did you find out about the problem? Oil leak? Noise?!

[mudnut]

The plate is there to guide the belt as well as shimming the the balancer and sprocket. Like I posted, this engine is running so well, you can almost balance a coin on the tappet cover at idle, so I am really pissed off.

[dom14]

The plate is there to guide the belt as well as shimming the the balancer and sprocket. Like I posted, this engine is running so well, you can almost balance a coin on the tappet cover at idle, so I am really pissed off.

Yes, yes, I would be really pissed off if I'm you as well. As a dedicated DIY'er who doesn't go to mechanics unless I'm super super desperate, I may be able to suggest something useful. That's why I ask how you discovered the problem. In other words the symptoms.


And yes, the plate is there to guide the belt, so it won't jump out of place or grind on sides.
I reckon that's the most important role.

[dom14]

One fix I have thought of is to drill and weld the plate to the sprocket and get it machined to be centred.

My inbox has now been cleared.

Your inbox is still full & not accepting any messages.

Not sure about drilling & welding though. From what I understood so far, the crank is scored where the plate sits.

[mudnut]

The belt has been on there since just after I bought the car, so it is due to be replaced (5 years or 100,000 ks). It has only done 30,000 but I have pushed this little engine to the limits in that time.

The shaft is not just scored, it has a fairly deep groove chewed into it.

Since this is a weak spot on the dirty 30, I also thought of spot welding the two new plates to the sprocket before I fit it all up.

[dom14]

The belt has been on there since just after I bought the car, so it is due to be replaced (5 years or 100,000 ks). It has only done 30,000 but I have pushed this little engine to the limits in that time.

The shaft is not just scored, it has a fairly deep groove chewed into it.

Since this is a weak spot on the dirty 30, I also thought of spot welding the two new plates to the sprocket before I fit it all up.

If the two key notches on the crank aren't damaged, then i think you can sleeve it using a matching sleeve from Bearing Wholesalers or similar people. I'm not sure whether your particular model's crankshaft front end is different than mine, but I'm not sure how the problem manifesting itself either.

I'm thinking there are methods to fill those grooves as well, using methods like spray welding or TIG filler, and sand/buff it back to shape. I'm not sure it's worth though, as you can get hold of an RB30 crank or motor for peanuts these days.

[mudnut]

$900 which includes freight to my place. Or I can source a reco-ready block and see if the Dyno guy will rebuild it for me.

[dom14]

$900 which includes freight to my place. Or I can source a reco-ready block and see if the Dyno guy will rebuild it for me.

I'm sure you know what you're doing, but from my end I really don't understand it.
If the real issue is the risk of the timing belt slipping out of place and grinding on the crankcase front housing, then your idea of TIG welding a plate(I mean my idea ;)) to the sprocket should solve the issue. From what I hear, the groove that is carved into the crank has no effect on the crank oil seal. Employ a bit of parallel thinking outside the box and see what you can come up with.
I certainly won't be paying $900 for an engine, 'cos then on top of that you have some hefty labour bills to cover as well.
In my book I would have a totally different approach. But if it's your daily commuter, then you have a bit of an issue.

[mudnut]

I will have to make choices when I pull it all apart again. I think the plates are high tensile (will have to check that), so if they are, then welding may affect their strength.

[dom14]

I will have to make choices when I pull it all apart again. I think the plates are high tensile (will have to check that), so if they are, then welding may affect their strength.

I think you need to worry about the crank gear than those plates. They basically get tightened around the crank gear & then turn with it. Welding something to the crank gear may or may not affect it's strength. But, crank gear's main function is to transfer the rotation force from crank to the camshaft.
If I'm in your situation that's what I would do, or I may make a custom plate to fit with the groove carved on the crankshaft by the plate. I would also attempt to either fill the groove with high strength & brittle steel epoxy or speedy sleeve it & then modify the plate to suit the speedy sleeve diameter.
There are few ways I can think of how I would approach the issue. All depend on what other damage you have there, other than the groove carved on the crank. For example, if the plate has been grinding on the protruded face of the crank where the plate rests on & where the crank oil seal goes in, then you have a slightly bigger problem I reckon, 'cos that would set the vertical alignment of the cam gear, timing belt and crank gear. I am not 100% certain how critical is that alignment, but I would say if any wear on that protrusion leaves the crank gear rotation untrue, then that would affect the harmonic balancer as well as the timing belt's true rotation.
The key(s) on the crank may or may not force the rotation to be true, but I'm not sure. But, my general guess is if the plate has been rotating on it's own and grinding on the crankshaft and carve a groove then any grinding it's done on the protruded vertical face of the crank should ideally be uniform, rather than an angle or uneven. In that case, simply making a right thickness plate for the lost amount of metal from grinding should correct any misalignment.

[dom14]

I will have to make choices when I pull it all apart again. I think the plates are high tensile (will have to check that), so if they are, then welding may affect their strength.

You may be able to address that issue by heating the whole welded crank gear & plate to a certain temperature and then allow it to cool down slowly.

[mudnut]

To tell the truth, I have known about the problem since I had to do the head gasket and then the water pump. This is way back in September 2014.

Like I said, I couldn't afford to deal with it, so have just kept my fingers crossed and drove the bloody thing.

I have taken the top timing belt cover off twice, and checked to see if any more damage has occurred.

I only saw that the belt was a little chafed so again, just put it back together and kept driving.

Thinking that I would now have to deal with it because the belt is 5 years old, I bought an engine for $220 from Smart Parts in Ballarat and took it to the dyno guy, yesterday.

He reckoned I have scored a good engine, but his response regarding the current problem was,"Look, if it was gunna destroy itself, it would've done so already. If you take the top cover off, I will check it all for you."

I pulled the thing off this morning and he came and had a look, while I cranked the engine over with the starter.

He said that there is zero movement in the plate, and that the belt is still in very, condition.

His advice is just to drive it for another couple of years, and to check it occasionally.

I have somehow been lucky enough to have clamped the plate onto the shaft in such a way that it will be ok.

I will re-check the balancer bolt torque and leave it at that, until the belt needs changing.

In the mean time, I have a spare engine to play with.

[dom14]

To tell the truth, I have known about the problem since I had to do the head gasket and then the water pump. This is way back in September 2014.

Like I said, I couldn't afford to deal with it, so have just kept my fingers crossed and drove the bloody thing.

I have taken the top timing belt cover off twice, and checked to see if any more damage has occurred.

I only saw that the belt was a little chafed so again, just put it back together and kept driving.

Thinking that I would now have to deal with it because the belt is 5 years old, I bought an engine for $220 from Smart Parts in Ballarat and took it to the dyno guy, yesterday.

He reckoned I have scored a good engine, but his response regarding the current problem was,"Look, if it was gunna destroy itself, it would've done so already. If you take the top cover off, I will check it all for you."

I pulled the thing off this morning and he came and had a look, while I cranked the engine over with the starter.

He said that there is zero movement in the plate, and that the belt is still in very, condition.

His advice is just to drive it for another couple of years, and to check it occasionally.

I have somehow been lucky enough to have clamped the plate onto the shaft in such a way that it will be ok.

I will re-check the balancer bolt torque and leave it at that, until the belt needs changing.

In the mean time, I have a spare engine to play with.

Have you actually considered to spot weld the plate into the crankshaft groove, since the plate is already deep into it?!!

[mudnut]

I know the crank is already stuffed but that would lock the seal on. I did think of getting a plate machined with an off centre hole, so that when it was pushed into the groove, the outer circumference was concentric to the shaft.

[GQtdauto]

Be wary of welding a hardened shaft unless you know exactly what you are doing , your mechanics advice is sound but does leave that aspect of uncertainty, you don't want to be outbush somewhere in the future and have it all go to crap on you .
The less invasive methods of Doms and your own would be better from my point of view .

[dom14]

Be wary of welding a hardened shaft unless you know exactly what you are doing , your mechanics advice is sound but does leave that aspect of uncertainty, you don't want to be outbush somewhere in the future and have it all go to crap on you .
The less invasive methods of Doms and your own would be better from my point of view .

Yep, I totally agree.
Going on long trips with a timing belt that can possibly slip off the crank gear and grind all the way to end on the wall
will be a disaster.
I wouldn't try conventional welding methods on hardened steel of course.

[dom14]

I know the crank is already stuffed but that would lock the bearing on. I did think of getting a plate machined with an off centre hole, so that when it was pushed into the groove, the outer circumference was concentric to the shaft.

I don't think I follow that.
What bearing are you referring to?

[mudnut]

I meant the seal, brain in neutral when posting that.

Post amended.

Anyway used the endless chain to pull the engine from the back of the Old Trol. I whipped the plugs out and found some greenish deposits on #6 that smelt like coolant. Worst case scenario, is it has been hydrolocked, but the best is only a head gasket. I will shop around for a s/h engine stand.

[dom14]

I meant the seal, brain in neutral when posting that.

Post amended.

Anyway used the endless chain to pull the engine from the back of the Old Trol. I whipped the plugs out and found some greenish deposits on #6 that smelt like coolant. Worst case scenario, is it has been hydrolocked, but the best is only a head gasket. I will shop around for a s/h engine stand.

Engine stands are pretty cheap. Check on ebay. If you have few scrap steel & a stick welder, you can make a one in no time.

Make sure to do a leak down test on the used engine you have.
If you've got it cheap, it will be a hit and miss, but most have pretty good bottom ends.

[mudnut]

Removal of timing sprocket

I took the advice from another thread, to drill and tap some holes in the timing sprocket and use a puller to remove it.

Materials and tool list.

2x 6mm x 1mm thread pitch x 100mm hardened bolts with large washers.

1x small steel ruler, or vernier calliper.

1x 2mm drill bit.

1x 5mm drill bit.

1x 6mm x 1mm starting tap.

1x 6mm x 1mm bottom tap.

1x El Cheapo puller and spanner to fit.

1x hot air gun, hair drier or inductor heat gun.

1x centre punch and hammer.

1x scribe.

I soaked the sprocket with Inox for a few days and cleaned the crank, with a fine grained wet 'n' dry paper.

Position the sprocket with the key at the top.

Carefully measure and scribe two marks, on the outer edge of the machined step of the sprocket, each 90 degrees from the centre of the key.

Taking care to position the point of the centre punch. Make a light mark and check it is in the correct place. Use a few heavy blows to deepen the mark, so that the drill bit won't move off centre.

The sprockets are made of very soft metal so you must constantly check that the drills and taps are centred and parallel to the crankshaft.

Drill two pilot holes with the 2mm bit, approximately 17 mm deep.

Use the 5mm bit to drill out the pilot holes.

Use the starting tap to get cut the threads.

Use the bottom tap to cut to cut to the bottom of the holes.

When setting up the puller, screw the bolts into the holes until they hit bottom, then undo them half a turn. This is to ensure that if a bolt breaks under the strain it will be much easier to pull out the remaining piece.

Screw in the crankshaft bolt ( almost to full depth) to give the puller a good surface to act on.

Apply heat to the sprocket and begin to tighten the puller. The sprocket should slide off fairly easy, but in many cases it may be very tight. And you may need to use more heat. Be patient and don't break the puller bolts.

If you are unsuccessful, you may have to drill another hole above the key, or a series of holes along the key (in vehicle) and use a chisel to split the sprocket to remove it.

I did this job with the engine on a stand and there is not much room to work in the engine bay. There are drills with right angle heads or right angle attachments available.

I would recommend drilling and tapping these puller holes into the sprocket before fitting it to the engine.

[mudnut]

There is a shallow groove worn into this crankshaft as well, but it is nowhere as deep as the one in the Old Trol.

You can see signs of movement on the rear washer, but the centre hole is not worn out, like the one fitted in the vehicle.

I have thought of drilling and tapping the sprocket puller holes all the way through and into the washer. I would grind the end flat of a pair of grub screws and fit them with just enough length protruding to seat the washer at centre, This would negate the washer being fitted off centre or spinning around and further chewing the shaft out.

I would also fit another short grub screw to lock each one, also using the correct Loctite to ensure nothing came loose.

[Throbbinhood]

Need to remove clutch fan and drive belts, swap clutch hub and fan over. Will try to remember to take some pics, hopefully help anyone else that may need to do it.

You still around Dom? Been a while since I've seen your name here!

[Throbbinhood]

Forgot all about getting pictures. Job was easy enough, was given the wrong p/s belt so that was annoying.

dom14 where are youuuuu?

In other news, car has it's power back with new fan clutch, it's no longer thinking it's a jumbo.

Flipside is looks like my rotor button is cooked again. Rev limiter kicking in around 4700. 3rd button in two years, cars lucky to do 5k kms a year.

Has anyone actually tossed the springs, I've seen it mentioned on a few forums here and there but be nice to speak to someone that's done it.

[mudnut]

Forgot all about getting pictures. Job was easy enough, was given the wrong p/s belt so that was annoying.

dom14 where are youuuuu?

In other news, car has it's power back with new fan clutch, it's no longer thinking it's a jumbo.

Flipside is looks like my rotor button is cooked again. Rev limiter kicking in around 4700. 3rd button in two years, cars lucky to do 5k kms a year.

Has anyone actually tossed the springs, I've seen it mentioned on a few forums here and there but be nice to speak to someone that's done it.

Interesting. What brand button have you been using? I've had no problems as yet, and have had the engine rev way over redline a few few times but it is all stock gear.

What ignition system are you using? Is the button getting hot for some reason?

[Throbbinhood]

Interesting. What brand button have you been using? I've had no problems as yet, and have had the engine rev way over redline a few few times but it is all stock gear.

What ignition system are you using? Is the button getting hot for some reason?

One has been from Bursons, the other Repco. No idea on the actual brand.

Yeah they're good for a while giving me 6300 or whatever. But they just seam to wear quick and I can't get it past 4800 now. Happens again and again.

I replace the button and it's all good again, so I know it's not a secondary issue or anything like that.

Whatever the stock ignition is lol, no idea. Nope not getting hot, didn't have long enough to get hot last time haha. #poorcar

[Throbbinhood]

One has been from Bursons, the other Repco. No idea on the actual brand.

Yeah they're good for a while giving me 6300 or whatever. But they just seam to wear quick and I can't get it past 4800 now. Happens again and again.

I replace the button and it's all good again, so I know it's not a secondary issue or anything like that.

Whatever the stock ignition is lol, no idea. Nope not getting hot, didn't have long enough to get hot last time haha. #poorcar

Yet to replace the button, but rev limiter is down to 4k now. Don't know why they keep doing this, the car sits for long periods so maybe they just get lazy from not moving, I dunno.

[Throbbinhood]

mudnut on your snorkel post earlier (page 13 from memory). Have you done anything to seal the top of the airbox to the carby? I know there's a rubber seal there, but IMO it's a weakpoint and whilst I haven't had issues yet, it's next on my to do list (make up an airbox so I can have a silicone bend clamped to top of the carby).

[mudnut]

Just a large washer and a piece of inner tube.

The real worry is the pre-heat flap inlet and vacuum diaphragm casing.

I ran a bead of silicon on the top and used a reducer and plug on the inlet but found it was too restrictive in cold weather with the plug removed.

I will probably get a full sized aluminium plug machined up and seal it with a fine bead of silicon so it can be removed in winter.

[Throbbinhood]

Think I'm going to do away with the airbox completely and move to a patroldocta style one or similar. Have heard most people block off the vac lines from carby to airbox with no ill effects, anyone know what they do/run/change?

[mudnut]

Think I'm going to do away with the airbox completely and move to a patroldocta style one or similar. Have heard most people block off the vac lines from carby to airbox with no ill effects, anyone know what they do/run/change?

Dom has posted the vacuum circuit earlier in this thread.

[Throbbinhood]

dom14 you still around here mate?

[mudnut]

Ok, all you Dirty thirty owners. Time to check and re-torque the crankshaft pulley bolt!! 152 nm or 112-113 ftlb.

Take off the stone guard. Unclip the radiator shroud extension piece and it is easily accessible.

[mudnut]

For those who want to build a high-powered beast out of the RB block. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1iTh-2u3E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS3fFLg2QfU

[Throbbinhood]

Anyone have an aftermarket Airbox in their rb30? What do you do with the vac lines that feed into the stock one? Plug them? What do they all do?

[Throbbinhood]

bumpity bumpity bumpsalot

[0-TJ-0]

bumpity bumpity bumpsalot

Post #56 doesn't help?

[mudnut]

I recommend getting your RB30 rebuilt by a mechanic that has experience in racing. The only problem I've had is that my new engine died above 4300 rpm. I replaced the fuel filter and took it for a drive. A hell of a lot more grunt, but still dying. I found that one of the rev limiter springs in the dissy button had snapped. I reworked and fitted the spring before giving it another drive. It goes like a cut cat. Very happy with that.

[mudnut]

Had a big problem after the rebuild. The extra vacuum created by the port and polishing to the head, caused the steel air deflector under the second stage of the carby to break off.
The sheet metal component broke apart and was crunched by the pistons. Luckily for me, the metal is very soft and caused minimal damage. The deflector is there to help mix the exhaust gases fed in by the EGR valve, with the fuel air from the carby.

I have cut and filed of the remaining pieces of the deflector. I will have to obtain a deflector so I can maybe fabricate one with thicker steel, so that it will not fail again.

[RickGQ]

This is the Air Intake Pre-heat assembly fitted to a stock RB30S.

When the engine is cold, vacuum is applied to the diaphragm inside the silver unit on top of the air intake.

This unit has a small arm which operates a flap that closes the normal air intake and opens the "Stove Pipe".

The Stove pipe is attached to the metal shroud which collects hot air from around the exhaust manifold.

Vacuum pressure to the diaphragm is halted as the engine heats up, so the flap closes the stove pipe and opens the normal air intake.

The Pre-heat system must be operational for the vehicle to pass a roadworthy.

To prevent the pre-heat flap from opening during a trip where I am likely to encounter water crossings or dusty conditions, I take the normal hose off and stop up the holes with the two plugged pieces. (2nd picture).

Another simple way to block the hose is with an appropriately sized ball bearing.

As I live in a cooler climate, and have had to remove the heater grid positioned at the base of the carby (It had started to disintegrate and pieces were falling into the engine) For normal driving I keep the pre-heat system operational as it helps the engine warm up quickly to normal running temperature.

54962
Thank you all for this very useful thread on the RB30S.
My personal vehicle is a TD42, however I've inherited Dad's ST30, which is pretty much in original factory condition.
Right now I'm in the process of cleaning things up and sorting out a few ignition issues, it's got a bit of a miss.. Plugs and leads are on order.

In the meantime I've been looking at why it runs badly in cold damp weather. Turns out the intake pre-heat has been disabled - a ball bearing in the hose.
That's simple enough to fix - but - I think one of the mechanisms inside the air cleaner has also been damaged.
Can anyone school me on what these two are supposed to do?
The one with the plastic housing is most likely a temperature sensor valve. What's the other one though, marked '2X14'? Presently it just allows manifold vacuum to be bypassed directly to the intake.
8296282963

[mudnut]

Follow the hose under the filter housing. If it is only missing at idle check for a vacuum leak. If you remove the ball bearing in the pre heat, you will hear the flap open when you put on and pop off the hose. To see if the flap is ok, vacuum will appear at the hole in the bottom of the filter housing when the hose is attached .

[RickGQ]

Thanks Mudnut,

This RB30 is a bit new to me, having been in a diesel for so long.

I tested the pre-heat actuator, the mechanism operates ok. So, once the ball bearing is removed and the sensor is fixed, it ought to help with cold running.

The miss occurs at all revs and under load, also it's quite repetitive, so I'm assuming it's missing on one or two cylinders.
Measuring the leads, they are ~10k except #5 and #6 which are over 22k.
The distributor was quite dirty inside. I've cleaned it all up and tested the advance is operating ok.

I still need to check the plugs. Have to run out and get a 16mm socket for that.
Once the electrics are sorted I hope the engine will return to its normal smooth running operation.

Last time I even looked at a petrol engine was in 1989 or there about. An old Hilux with the 18R engine. Takes me back.

[mudnut]

Before taking out the plugs, use a bit of pipe to fit over them and vacuum out any crud that will fall into the cylinder.

[RickGQ]

I saw your advice on that vacuum cleaner trick, and did exactly that!
Still a bit of rubbish came out with the plugs... there was some oil or grease holding it in there I think.

[RickGQ]

Thanks to this thread, and helpful posts from Mudnut and Dom, I've got Dad's ST30 Patrol running sweetly again.

The sensors inside the air cleaner control the warm air intake, and had been blocked off at some stage, probably in a misguided attempt to disable emission controls. This would explain why the vehicle ran poorly in cold, wet weather. I've restored these sensors and the warm air intake now operates correctly. The image below shows how the vacuum hoses are run.
82971

New plugs and leads. The old leads were the cause of the engine misfiring. They were the original leads, dated 1992...
The new plugs and leads are all genuine NGK.
82972

Thanks to Mudnut for the post about using a piece of hose to thread the plugs in. This really is an easy and safe method to ensure the plugs are correctly installed and not cross-threaded. I was concerned about damaging the alloy head, this method eliminates that potential issue.
82973

After a good spray with carby cleaner, the RB30 is revving easier as well. That carby cleaner is like magic.
82974

I'm very impressed with how smoothly this engine runs. It sounds like a well oiled sewing machine.

[mudnut]

A carby kit would be a good investment. The rubber components dry and go brittle with age.

Check the condition of the small fuel hose that feeds the carby.

They are well known for cracking and leaking. I could not find a replacement anywhere so I bought a piece of hose and six hose clamps. Two to clamp the hose ends. The other four keep the hose from kinking as you form the curve, but don't over tighten them.

[RickGQ]

The carby has had a kit put in it at some stage - I can see the screws have been removed by someone in the past. Dad can't remember exactly when though.
The short fuel hose is ok, perhaps it was replaced when the carby was serviced.
I'm sort of at the stage where I should find a new home for this ST30 and go back to driving the red TD42. The more work I do on the RB30, the less I'll want to part with it! Tempting to play around with it though hey?

[mudnut]

The RBs are fantastic for sand driving as they rev out way more than either the TB or TD. Just pick a gear point it up a dune and plant the foot.

[RickGQ]

The RBs are fantastic for sand driving as they rev out way more than either the TB or TD. Just pick a gear point it up a dune and plant the foot.

...And they're considerably lighter as well. Particularly this one; it's original, the only bolt-on is that alloy bullbar.
82990

[mudnut]

The main disadvantage is the timing belt. Dirt and water ingress are a problem. I have yet to add a hose to the top of my new engine's timing belt cover so a high volume low pressure air supply can keep the belt clean and dry.

[RickGQ]

The main disadvantage is the timing belt. Dirt and water ingress are a problem. I have yet to add a hose to the top of my new engine's timing belt cover so a high volume low pressure air supply can keep the belt clean and dry.

Fortunately, Dad's ST30 has almost no off-road use. Mostly long distance touring. There's no mud evident, no rust that I can see, no under body damage. Presumably the timing belt area will be reasonably clean. "Silver" is almost factory-spec, Dad never was one for accessories.

[mudnut]

Nice looking vehicle. You should get a good price for it.

[RickGQ]

Nice looking vehicle. You should get a good price for it.

Thanks!
It makes me sad to think of selling it, because it'll be the end of an era.
I hope it finds a good new owner.

[CaptainNewman]

Took the RB30 up Goog's Track, SA recently. This is a popular 'mini Simpson' dune/desert drive, and goes from Ceduna around 200km north to the trans-Australian railway line.

Had no trouble with the Patrol... apart from the terrific corrugations on the railway line track from Malbooma all the way past Kingoonya to the Stuart Highway. Driver's side engine mount nut came loose, an exhaust mount snapped, and the factory jack managed to rattle its way out of the quarter panel holder.

Fuel economy: 16L/100km for the 1000kms from Ceduna, up the Googs Track (sand dunes, usually 4WD HIGH 2nd) and all the way back to Adelaide. This was with 31s, no roof rack, fairly light camping gear and only 2 people in the car.

These old buses can still get out there and mix it with all the dual-cabs that seem to be absolutely everywhere these days.

84100

[CaptainNewman]

Hi guys
Hoping for some help with intermittent starting issues.

Took the Patrol down an almighty, 'risk-the-panels' descent on the weekend, and after stalling at the bottom the poor thing wouldn't turn over. Managed to roll start it and continued around the track with no problems... thankfully not a trip-ruiner !

Battery is full, starter motor replaced new in 2017. All the dash lights come on. Engine runs fine once it's going. With engine off, turning the key from ON to START, there's absolute silence under the bonnet, not even a click.

But sometimes it will just start like normal.

I'm thinking it's a dodgy starter relay ? But do these RB30s come with one ? Have done some searching and can't seem to find a part anywhere...

Cheers fellas

[mudnut]

Check the lug at the solenoid. Sometimes they look solid but can have carbon build up, especially if it is an aftermarket spade lug. Use a pair of pliers to tighten it. If that is ok, sometimes a a quick bang with a hammer will get you going. If that is the case, shelling out for a quality starter is on the cards.

[CaptainNewman]

Intermittent starting issues - update.

A bang with the hammer got the solenoid clicking (it wasn't before), but no sound from the starter and engine still won't turn over. Hopefully it's nothing more sinister, and looks like I'll be up for a new starter motor !

RIP the current starter motor 2017 - 2021... 46,000kms. It would have done 10+ beach weekenders, and several heavily corrugated outback roads, but never any mud or significant water crossings.

[mudnut]

Check the battery voltage when starting. It could be an open circuit cell.

[CaptainNewman]

Hey guys

For anyone like me who's interested in a bit of RB30 history... here is an article from 4Wheeler Magazine (Winter '93) comparing the RB30 Patrol to Landcruiser, Jackaroo and Pajero.

84477844788447984480844818448284483

[CaptainNewman]

...and an original glossy Patrol brochure from back in the day...
84484844858448684487844888448984490

[Winnie]

...and an original glossy Patrol brochure from back in the day...
84484844858448684487844888448984490
MB it looks like the snorkel on your ute was a genuine Nissan option.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

[rusty_nail]

MB it looks like the snorkel on your ute was a genuine Nissan option.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

mind blown! and for what its worth, it was AB ute first lol

[mudnut]

If you have a stripped or cross-thead spark plug hole., this thread might help. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?55026-RB30-spark-plug-thread-insert-any-ideas&p=833617&posted=1#post833617

[CaptainNewman]

Hi crew, thought I'd post a quick trip report from last year - I love that these old buses can still mix it out there in the bush. On this trip the Patrol clocked up 400,000kms.

We travelled up the Oodnadatta Track via William Creek to Dalhousie Springs, then into the Simpson Desert National Park and Reserve. We weren't planning to do a full crossing, so once the proper dunes started we went 3 or so dunes in and set up camp. On the return trip back through Maree and Leigh Creek, we turned east to Arkaroola (I'd worked there for a season 10 years ago) and spent 3 nights before heading home.

The old Patrol went fine, no major problems and the usual 13-15L/100kms fuel consumption for tires 30psi front & rear and 80-90km/hr on most of the unsealed (had tire monitors). With 140L long range tank we made fuel stops in Pt Wakefield, Pt Augusta, William Creek, Oodnadatta (Pink Roadhouse), William Creek, Arkaroola and Stirling North. The minor mechanical casualties were mostly due to corrugations:


Picked up a bad tank of fuel in Pt Wakefield. Bunny hopped up most of the Oodnadatta track, had to change the fuel filter twice.
1x Rear brake backing plate cracked and eventually had to be removed
Front diff housing started weeping oil, hairline crack next to the pumpkin and triangle weld
Weather seal between the 2 halves of the rear sliding window fell off and had to be glued into place
Welding on exhaust hangar to top of muffler cracked


and now for some photos:

Plenty of water around from recent Spring rains. This detour from the main track was tempting until it took us all afternoon to dig the car out. The RB30 seemed to have hardly any pulling power. Yours truly realised after 2 hours of fruitless unbogging that the handbrake had been on the whole time... We got out just in time to avoid offers of help from a convoy of dual cabs
87530

How's the serenity - 3 dunes into the Simpson
87531

Budget storage and roofrack setup - wouldn't want to make it too easy - three of us with two swags and food for 10 days
87532

[mudnut]

Great to see the old bus being used for what it was made for. Some people scoff at the old dirty thirty. Apart from the timing belt being a bit vulnerable behind the harmonic balancer, they go everywhere other petrol models can.

[BrazilianY60]

It also looks beautiful. The RB rock cover looks so cool in comparison with the TB ones. The TB one is just a tin can doing its thing. The RB one sports shapes, logo, etc.

[mudnut]

Time to check your nuts! With the engine off, whack the handbrake on and put it in fifth gear. Get under your Patrol, undo the four bash plate nuts and and use a long breaker bar and socket to check the Harmonic balancer nut. Gotta keep an eye on the bugger, especially if a mechanic has done any work on it.

[CaptainNewman]

Hi RB30 crew. A quick trip report - just got back from the Simpson with the RB, Oodnadatta to Birdsville via the French Line and QAA Line. Despite the Bash being on (13,000 camped at Big Red apparently), it was pretty quiet in the desert and we basically saw 1 other convoy each day (probably because the Birdsville Track was closed due to rain).

Fuel - took 130L in the long range tank, plus 80L in plastic jerries on the roof, so plenty spare.

RB30 sipped - got 21L/100kms from Oodnadatta to Birdsville, 698kms total mostly in 4H. Tracks were fairly slippery from recent rain, but the French Line seemed pretty good condition. Speeds 70-90km/hr on the gravel, 15-40km/hr in the desert. Tires 22psi rear, 18psi front. Had the second spare behind the front seats, and tried to keep all the weight between the axles (total load ~350kg, probably 25kg spare tire, 90kg water, 25kg food, 20kg luggage, 30kg camping gear, 100kg fuel + firewood up top, 30kg drawers, 30kg spares + tools etc.) plus 2 people.

Fuel economy Adelaide > Oodnadatta and Birdsville > Home was 15-16L/100kms doing 100km/hr in 4th, 5th with some headwind at times, tires at highway pressure.

No real mechanical casualties apart from both inner mud guards coming *close* to falling off with the weight of all the mud from the Oodnadatta track (cable tie fix), plus the carby losing rev power when cold (likely the second stage butterfly sticking as described by Mudnut and others, I still need to wet/dry the barrels and fix this). A crack which I'd previously had welded at the base of the driver's A-pillar/windscreen must have opened up again, because we had a constant 'clicking' soundtrack on the drive home.

Had a great time and no trouble getting up any of the sand dunes.

... did have some trouble getting through ponded water at the base of Big Red...
88143

[mudnut]

Thanks for the write up, Cap. Great to see you again using the Dirty 30 above and beyond its intended purpose. From what research I can gather, the RB30 was released as a cheaper version for carrying kids and maybe for weekend away.

[Johnsdenm]

It sounds like you've gathered a wealth of knowledge on maintaining the RB30 engine! Your detailed instructions on checking the fuel return solenoid and the circuitry involved are really helpful for anyone troubleshooting similar issues. Thanks for sharing such valuable insights!

[mudnut]

My supposed "heavy duty" clutch is slipping when under really heavy use. It is only 20000 ks old and did slip once before, under the same circumstances. Up steep dunes in 4wd low.

[mudnut]

I recently bought another carby and carby kit. The bloke who runs the local dyno, fitted the kit. Unfortunately the auto choke was defunct, so I had to remove the heater spring and fit a manual choke. I already had the manual choke cable fitted, as the previous carby also had a dud auto choke. I will endeavour to take some pics of the modification. The same two components had failed on the new carby as the old one. The heater spring was open circuit, and the choke break diaphragm has a hole or split in it. I also used a ball bearing to block the choke break vacuum hose.