All Things Chev

[MB]

Think I might have found my dream alternator gents and bulletproof too they reckon :-)!
http://www.delcoremy.com/getmedia/3716189f-568e-4d81-8fb2-397dd61b2905/38SI-Single-Page-Brochure-6-16.pdf.aspx
215amps with 121amps at idle.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/05/2.png
It is bulky but measured it up this morning and in theory should just fit drivers side behind the power steering reservoir with a 200mm supported extension shaft to pickup the existing Mitsubishi alternator V belt inline.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/05/79.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/05/80.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/05/81.jpg 121amps at idle should power the 6hp Warn/Mahle motor no sweat :-)


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This beast Philstar brother:-)



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[MB]

As a point of interest I'd be a tad suprised if you get max output from that Alt with only one drive belt as well.

Anything over about 110/120 will usually have two belts.
That Alt of yours will pull something towards 2 horsepower at max output
Very good call too ET mate! The V belt does carry on a wee bit when hot :-(


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[MB]

Fired the old twactor up again colder just now, pulling 14.4v :-) ET might well again be on the money!! These damn V belts have next to no tension means bar a crappy idler of 10mm say.
https://youtu.be/E6rNO2IPKM0
Sitting in the cold beast now reved up a good 14.8v + :-) Damn ‘new’ belt I believe now is getting hot and expanding/not spinning the beasty Alt :-) No wonder it hauls the winch so well in the snow boys, lol :-)
Thank you All greatly!!!!



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[PeeBee]

If its stretching when hot you should smell it, hear it and see the rubber discoloured on the drive surfaces, most likely polished finish - is this what you have? If so the belt is cactus. If you are struggling with belt tension, go down one size belt if you can to get the most out of the tensioner. I get my belts from Total Tools and they have a huge selection, but Bursons should also have a good stockholding. I don't know if you have the opportunity to go a double Vee drive on your setup? If so, this will help for sure.

[MB]

I believe so now thanks mate, remember I mentioned up on Dingo Hill Track a short lived burning smell that I thought was my clutch. It is a relatively new ‘Gates’ belt from ‘Bursons’ and was the smallest I could possibly fit over the idler when new/cold. There may be a way to utilise its twin pulley with an extra off the water pump pulley somehow, will check it out tonight after work, Cheers!


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[poindexter]

I'm surprised some one doesn't use one of these

https://alternatorparts.com/

[the evil twin]

I'm surprised some one doesn't use one of these

https://alternatorparts.com/

Great link

Jeez they have some nice doodads, twin and triple rectifier kits and enough amperage on some of their Alts to classify a Trol as mobile Genset not a 4X.

I see they sell a cooling kit as well.
A 2 inch 12V axial fan and 2 inch tubing, wouldn't be hard to dodgy something like that up I spose.

[PeeBee]

I have already sent this link to MB for his info. I will be buying 2 off the 400 amp units for fitment to my 100amp and 200amp alternators next month.

I sourced a 3" bilge pump fan from Whitworth marine to cool the alternators, works a treat, but generally only use it when statioary for an extended period, temps and charging seems ok with vehicle moving

[MB]

Cheers Blokes! Phil if you could kindly order for me too next month would be greatly appreciated mate, maybe postage save together?
I’ve sussed out a possible Alt twin V belt option tonight by installing a larger belt to share across with the PS pump and off the crank together. It will require an additional idler pully for guidance away from others though, for now all I could do was to stretch the last bit of life out of the belt. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/147.jpg
Installed the unpainted new bonnet from Blitz before doing another identical hill test run flogging it again with the boat. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/148.jpg
Alternator sits perfectly in fresh air flow now.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/149.jpg
Seems to have worked for now on the Alt although time will tell without the secondary belt yet and a rectifier thingybob.
Best news for the new bonnet has been water temps ran 3-5 degrees cooler on the big flogging haul up compared to last night and temps dropped about 3 degrees below TS presets when cruising on the flat, very happy, will test some more for sure!


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[PeeBee]

Good result MB. I will order 3 x 400amp units next month.

[PeeBee]

@MB, here is another belt option. 1) Space the alternator out by 1 pulley sheeve and run the existing belt off the rear groove. Buy a 4 sheeve pulley for the crank and the water pump and run the additional belt so now both belts will be the same. You will need a double adjuster pulley as well. Its a bit more work, the additional overhung load on the front bearing will be minor i believe.

[poindexter]

You seem to be going through a lot of effort on this charging thing.
200amps would be more than enough in my view.
I haven't read all 101 pages of this thread, but I don't get why you want 800amps charging capability? have I missed something.

[PeeBee]

Ralph, unsure who this directed at MB or me? I don't know what the 800amps refers to either - maybe clear that up first eh.

[poindexter]

POST #1008 : I have already sent this link to MB for his info. I will be buying 2 off the 400 amp units for fitment to my 100amp and 200amp alternators next month.


I assume you are replacing the 2 Alts with these 2 400amp Alts

[PeeBee]

POST #1008 : I have already sent this link to MB for his info. I will be buying 2 off the 400 amp units for fitment to my 100amp and 200amp alternators next month.


I assume you are replacing the 2 Alts with these 2 400amp Alts

OK, sorry. We are talking about the diode pack/rectifier upgrade only, not the alternator. I agree 2 x 400amp alternators would be an overkill unless you wanted to winch all day and the wiring upgrade would be a pain as well.

[the evil twin]

My "PeeBee Special" oil cooler arrived and very nicely engineered I must say now I've seen it in the flesh.

I'll definitely wack it as soon as possible after I sort out the unions required if I use the existing oil cooler pipes.

Thanks for putting us onto them Cobber

[PeeBee]

My "PeeBee Special" oil cooler arrived and very nicely engineered I must say now I've seen it in the flesh.

I'll definitely wack it as soon as possible after I sort out the unions required if I use the existing oil cooler pipes.

Thanks for putting us onto them Cobber

No problems. I was driving mine around in 40 degC over the weekend and it was cooling the oil by 30 deg however its noticeable that this decreases when the vehicle is stationary as it becomes a simply radiation temp shedding instead of having the temp being stripped off via a convection method.

[MB]

Thought it best to post up here a small issue found on the new fibreglass bonnet 4hr highway test run in very high ambient moderate hauling heats recently. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/239.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/240.jpg Doesn’t really bother me but the flexing/curling of the width of it may aesthetically upset a buyer looking for perfect panel lines, Cheers!
EDIT: This could possibly be a reason for the found instructional sticker atop of its arrival to “Test Fit First Prior Painting” maybe I’ll look at a matched white vinyl wrap again for flexibility like my old TD42T steel work bonnet logo cooker :-)
EDIT-2: Bake the cake prior to icing;-)
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[PeeBee]

MB, this should warrant a call to the manufacturer I reckon. based on it supposedly being a direct replacement this is horrible.

Secondly, no idea what the two edits mean, so again, full marks to the secret message to the beasts who can understand it!!!

[poindexter]

looks almost 5mm too narrow on both sides, could just be parallax error tho....

[poindexter]

OK, here's a question for the GU 6.5 owners' out there.

What is the clearance from the oil cap at the front of the engine to the inner hood?
And if you are running the A/C on the passenger side, the clearance from the compressor to the inner hood.
I'm trying to determine if I need a "non stock hood" with the P400.

[MB]

Sorry Ralph, can’t help with either measurement mate. I’ve already installed the new hood and my NA has the A/C compressor down below on the passenger side.


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[the evil twin]

I thought the accepted P400 mod for the Patrol was change the sump so everything else stays the same.
FWIW mine has the ZD30 bonnet (A/C on upper pax side) and oil filler, A/C and I/C all fit tickety boo.

If you raise the entire engine to suit the factory sump then you will run into issues other than just the bonnet clearance I would imagine

[poindexter]

Thanks Mr Twin (or can I call you Evil)
Good point that you make regarding the oilpan.
From my research, there tends to be minimal clearance at max travel, between the oilpan and the diff, so I was looking at possible options there.

[MB]

I too Ralph was under the impression that the sumps on the mighty P400’s would need customisation to fit in our GU Trols. Something to consider doing this fit might also be oil volume in the end. My NA stock sump holds a measly 8.6L and are currently increasing total volume to over 10L at least needed IMHO by way of PeeBee’s fin twin cooler and long lines.
Do you know mate what the P400’s stock oil volume currently is as I’m thinking that maybe the P400 girdle not only strengthens the bottom end but could expand oil volume needed beyond the sumps max limits possibly?


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[poindexter]

OK good point MB, what would be the ideal oilpan capacity be then?

[MB]

Cheers Ralph mate!
10L+ I believe for my old grunt NA slug hillside twactor. If you’re looking to SC the beast you’re building I’d uneducatedly say shiploads.
I am honestly/truly needing to learn what a GM fixed weapon P400’s oil capacity is so I can please try to mimic! Thanks mate!!


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[poindexter]

the service manual says 7.6 liters (8 qts)

[PeeBee]

Update on oil cooler added recently. Was using it in mid 30's over the last 4 days and oil temps were between 25 - 40 deg less on the discharge side compared to input side in low range 4wd, say 5klm/hr average and mid 30's air temp. If the vehicle was stationary, as was the case with the winching activity which took maybe 30mins i guess, the temp difference was perhaps 15 degC, as there was no forced airflow over the fins - very impressive to say the least. Driving home on the freeway, the difference was 45 -48 degC at 100klm/hr, 2000rpm, EGT 300DegC, air temp circa 30 Deg C

[poindexter]

What are you guys doing for lift pump and filtration?

[PeeBee]

Ralph, BD supply a cheap in line filter pre the lift pump. I change this every 5000klm with the oil. I also run a 100um pre strainer down near the fuel tank, which is fitted with a 12v heater mat for the colder month trips. I run a CAV filter with clear glass bowl in the engine bay for final filtration and change this every 5000klm at oil change time as well.. I tried to duplicate this filtration at the fuel tank end, however had to 'retreat' to the strainer as the lift pump would not suck and push thru 2 CAV filters. When I remove the bowl to inspect it, first did this at 1000klm, at first oil change, it was clean and now water of scum/sediment, so happy with this set up for now.

I bought a spare lift pump off BD and they charged me $250. I checked the model and could buy the same pump ex USA for $80 including freight. I can dig out the model for you if interested, but will be tomorrow as its in my spares box under the truck. I think it is rated at something like 150LPHR at 12PSI - apologise for the mix of units.

[the evil twin]

What are you guys doing for lift pump and filtration?

My rig has a standard el cheapo $20 inline 12 Volt pump.

Connected to a standard el cheapo $5 Ryco inline throw away 'pre' filter.

Which pumps into a $120 Donaldson 3 Micron Filter/Water Seperator

[MB]

the service manual says 7.6 liters (8 qts)
Thanks Ralph, correct you are mate! Just checked the military manual for pre-2000’s and it also says 7.6L including filter. My current extra 1.0L is including the existing crappy cooler and lines I should have written. As before I want more ‘total’ in this old gal :-)


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[MB]

What are you guys doing for lift pump and filtration?
I believe mine is all old stock/original TD42 gear mate. Lift pump on chassis rail appears OEM, Filter is (your old mob) Bosch 1 457 434 281 which I believe is OEM Nissan too.


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[MB]

Found this helpful little guide from Dayco USA confirming ET’s Amps versus Belt selections. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/114.jpg Was recently toying with the idea of a 6 rib/groove short Holden serpy to the beasty alt but perfect alignment is looking trickier than first thought. Back to the drawing board with Dual Vee’s me thinks now!


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[Ian2011]

Anybody had a recent conversion that can tell me wether the Brunswick radiator is now alloy or old style bronze. Been quoted 1500 to replace my radiator which is leaking.

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[PeeBee]

Their radiators are brass. My conversion was done 15 mnths ago. They did not offer me an alloy one.

[poindexter]

My radiator is an ADRAD, it's alloy

[PeeBee]

My radiator is an ADRAD, it's alloy

Did BD supply this? I think thats the question, do they supply the copper or the alloy? They certainly manufacture their own copper/bronze/brass radiators, which was all I was offered when I had the conversion done.

By the way Ralph, how are you progressing with the P400 installation - all done, on the road, happy?

[poindexter]

Yes it was through BD cost was $1545, my builder recommended the ADRAD also.
Project P400 is not on the road yet, will get update this week. Has been slow mainly due to commitments on both sides.

[Ian2011]

Thanks for the info peeps. Probably better off getting the alloy than continue toe repair the old style.

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[MB]

FWIW mine came with an alloy from previous owner (unknown brand) and kept falling apart on the local rough roads. Changed to a local brass for over say 4 years now without issue and are comfortable in the knowledge I can fix it myself out there if ever needed. Was told that alloy is more efficient though so opted for a very open/spread core brass that seems to be working great. Can get the core model number if you need for secondary quotes mate?


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[Ian2011]

That would be good. Natrad say mine is full of holes yet it doesn't leak from anywhere except the filler neck. They couldn't find any replacements tanks and want to fabricate new radiator



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[MB]

No problem, give me 10 mins mate.


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[MB]

‘Y7452’
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/178.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/179.jpg
My local builder also plumbed the bottom end from passenger side across to gain as much water crossing as possible.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/180.jpg
In their stock form (yanky trucks) I believe our 6.5 Chev’s have the TS top housing facing opposite so this is not needed for crossflow. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/06/181.jpg Disregard my thermo fans, awesome in the slow bush tracks but not much chop on the highway hauling.


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[MB]

A better radius bend bottom pipework setup would have been nicer though if done again!


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[Ian2011]

Thanks for that mate. Will help me out today with the ring around

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[Marn]

Hi all. I have just acquired a 2001 patrol wagon with a 6.5 turbo chev. I have been doin a bit of reading about them and found out that there is a stronger version of the motor called the p400. How exactly do i know if i have a p400 or not?
Keen to find out what i have.
Motor installed in 2013 and has about 45000 on it now.
It was a new crate engine.

Thanks!!

[PeeBee]

The P400 has a reinforced bearing girdle so is approx 3" taller than the Optimiser or earlier 6.5. poindexter is installing one into a GU ute right now, so should be able to give you more clarity. Failing that do a google search and I think the difference is obvious. I would be surprised if you had the P400 as they are more difficult to fit than the other engines. I have the Optimiser n/a fitted to a GQ

[PeeBee]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEaX3H_lBAY

Have a look at this clip, especially around the 1min 40 mark. It shows the engine in detail and the extended bottom girdle

[Marn]

Thanks for that Pee Bee. I have a steel sump so until i look further on my days off, i think it is the standard optimiser engine.
Cheers

[poindexter]

There is a P400 cast into the engine block drivers side rear, just below the head, easy way is look for the girdle.

[MB]

Honestly waiting to admire the GU P400 beast when built Ralph mate! Please do keep me/us posted as a rebuild for my turn of the Century engine plants 2000 questionable Optimiser I believe is due for some loving and or swapping.
From my little research I’m worried about having to utilise massively extended front end bump stomps to protect their lower sumps mate?


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[poindexter]

I'm waiting to admire the Beast that is P400 too.

[poindexter]

OK, its been a few months since my last post, time for an update.

Regarding the P400 build, nothing has happened.
Today, I removed all my gear from the guy who was supposed to do the conversion.
I had been patient up until now, but after having the engine and car for many months and doing nothing, I pulled the pin on him.
This was a guy that I trusted and thought would do the "right thing", but this has not been the case.
I have given this guy many opportunities to correct the situation, but I think it was ultimately outside his comfort zone.
To this end, I have secured another dude after many weeks searching, to do the conversion.
So, 10 months from the start date, I am here again at the start again.
October is the nominated start, less than 2 weeks away.
We will see what happens from here, otherwise, I'll do it myself, like the last 6.5 conversion I had.
Fingers crossed!

[PeeBee]

Really sorry to hear this Ralph. Its a constant tension condition for sure when you are expecting something and it simply never comes around. In one way perhaps its better this never started, more from the perspective of uncertainty from your guy and potential for things to go pearshaped. Where are you thinking of turning before you start looking at the job yourself?

[PeeBee]

Honestly waiting to admire the GU P400 beast when built Ralph mate! Please do keep me/us posted as a rebuild for my turn of the Century engine plants 2000 questionable Optimiser I believe is due for some loving and or swapping.
From my little research I’m worried about having to utilise massively extended front end bump stomps to protect their lower sumps mate?


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Thinking about this MB, I would be going with a stiff-ish set of coils , mine are 110kg constant, then adding Superior hydraulic bump stops. These are on my list also, however the extended rubbers and stiffer coils are certainly ok for now.

[MB]

Bugger, sad to hear Ralph mate, please do keep posted, stay the cause ;-)
Bloody hard donks down under to find anyone to touch, you’re the man for da job oneself!


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[MB]

Thinking about this MB, I would be going with a stiff-ish set of coils , mine are 110kg constant, then adding Superior hydraulic bump stops. These are on my list also, however the extended rubbers and stiffer coils are certainly ok for now.
Mechanical Nuffy I’d be Philstar but as discussed looong time ago my measurements says them Girdles won’t fit for real diff travel 4x4 needs unfortunately:-(



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[PeeBee]

Mechanical Nuffy I’d be Philstar but as discussed looong time ago my measurements says them Girdles won’t fit for real diff travel 4x4 needs unfortunately:-(



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Agree, but for certainty and not having to go thru the BS I did with punching the hole in the sump and smashing the end off the starter motor, max effort needed. All you can do is provide a solid stop with some heavy deceleration hydraulically I rckon. As I mentioned, my system works but the sump is a long way further up that I reckon Ralphs will end up. Anyway I suspect he has resolved some cunning plan to squeeze the monster in, even with limitations.

[MB]

IIRC Ralph, original plan was to raise the drivetrain, floor pan tunnel, donk and all mate?


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[PeeBee]

Fark, that is going to be a major engineering pain I would think. Just thinking that scenario thru now, multitude of issues come to mind.

Had a quick search and BD have done a conversion with a P400 into a GU, but its a caravan tug it sounds

[poindexter]

BD did supply an oilpan that allegedly does fit, we'll see then....

[PeeBee]

BD did supply an oilpan that allegedly does fit, we'll see then....

I hope it has a greater volume than the pissing little pan supplied with the Optimiser.

[MB]

Massive thanks to MudRunnerTD (Daz) for putting me in touch with a Legendary old school mechanic for some overly kind Free friendly advice on the 2000 6.5NA Twactor quirks.
Far from a mechanic me but always thought compression testing was my next steps when time permits.
Never heard of “Leak-Down Testing” before but are sure now after speaking that this is truly the way to pinpoint a specific cylinder, top and or bottom annoying issue near exactly!
McGoogled it tonight and seems so simply practical for diagnosis I hope!
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test
Truly appreciated Daz/Chris Blokes!!



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[MB]

PeeBee old mate, new to me and obviously haven’t bought an ‘LDT’ kit yet so soon as was kindly advised from the Blokes.
Cutout below from the link found trying to learn:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/10/23.png
Would there be a time period to consider versus percentage loss I should be working too?
The link found is confusing me a little as I’m sure over extended time periods all perfect cylinders would leak eventually?
Cheers!



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[PeeBee]

Mark, we typically leak test compressors and the like over night, however am unsure if the tolerances are the same, maybe nissannewby could assist or garrett?

Reading the procedure suggests the results should be fairly instant, as you are testing each leak point then moving onto the next cylinder.

[MB]

Cheers Philstar, appreciated!


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[MB]

Slowly but surely getting there, Leak Down Tester arrived this week, needs some diesel modifications/adaptations made though.

https://youtu.be/0tZNh9dEt00

Instructions below for anyone else interested as I too never knew this pinpoint/isolating test existed.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/11/83.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/11/84.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/11/85.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/11/86.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/11/87.jpg


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[poindexter]

OK guys, today it gets serious....

Truck has been dropped off for the transplant, lets see how it goes this time 'round.
Almost a year latter to the day I dropped off the truck to the "first guy", now we start again.
Will I start to hold my breath now, or not.

[PeeBee]

OK guys, today it gets serious....

Truck has been dropped off for the transplant, lets see how it goes this time 'round.
Almost a year latter to the day I dropped off the truck to the "first guy", now we start again.
Will I start to hold my breath now, or not.

Best of luck Ralph, hope it ends well for you.

[PeeBee]

Bit the bullet today and purchased the serpentine belt upgrade to the front of the chev to double the water pump capacity and get it prepped for the Harrop 2300 supercharger installation early next year. The kit includes the new water pump, alternator, vacuum pump, Duramax 11 blade fan and new radiator shroud, crank pulley, idler take ups, upgraded serpy belt from 6 rib to 8 rib and all brackets.

The immediate challenge is deciding which snout pulley to adopt then finding the clearance as its close to the bonnet. Just found out I may need to do a 1" body lift unless I can find the space by removing part of the bonnet stiffener - late notice and a pain.If I go the smaller pulley, which will improve clearance, the dyno results from a guy in WA just this week had 1100nm and 262kw at the rear wheels on 35's, running at 12-15psi -18psi but the egt's start getting up if you stand on it, I will try not to stand on it too often. Also recommended a 4" exhaust from where the cross over pipes join, up from 3".

[poindexter]

Way to go PeeBee.....

[PeeBee]

Bought a set of 1" body lift blocks today as the SC snout looks like its going to get too close to the bonnet. Additionally, the BD supplied electric lift pump is too smaller for the application, so have to buy another one, same pressure rating, just higher flow. poindexter, have you purchased your from BD - a Sniper I think he said? The existing pump he supplies runs out of pressure at around the 52LPHR mark according to my fuel computer and flow transmitter. Just another thing that has come out of left field. Also, probably going to need surgery on the ARB side rails as they are a close fit with the factory flares.

[the evil twin]

Sold mine yesterday :(:(:(:(:(

Alas there was only room for one stonking great V8 powered Patrol in my life so 'Big Red' is off to a new and loving home and 'Moby' the great white whale is the new big kahuna.

[MB]

A sad day to hear E.T but for the best no doubt mate! Moby would suck the doors off Big Red if left alone together for too long :-)
Whack a Harrop Supercharger on your new White Whale and watch it breach hard ;-)


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[poindexter]

No PB, I dont have a fuel pump, will watch with interest how the supercharger goes.
So, you are sure that the snout requires you to body lift then?
Did the WA guys say what Injector Pump they are running?, that torque puts it outside the range of the 6L90 I have.
I assume you are getting or have the Bullet kit?

cheers

[MB]

Being that you’re converting to a serpy belt system PeeBee mate you may not need the rollover body lift hopefully mate. No doubt you’ve done your research that only the NA V belts we currently have need the extended forward SC snout.
A custom fiberglass bonnet bump could look mean and make some more wiring space good man!



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[PeeBee]

No PB, I dont have a fuel pump, will watch with interest how the supercharger goes.
So, you are sure that the snout requires you to body lift then?
Did the WA guys say what Injector Pump they are running?, that torque puts it outside the range of the 6L90 I have.
I assume you are getting or have the Bullet kit?

cheers

I am surprised you were not sold one with the big injector pump? I know that mine (existing)needs the pre-charge. We did a high country trip last year and I managed to pull a connector apart and disable the pump, the thing ran like a limp dog, soon as i found the issue and plugged it back in, all the smoking and carry on ceased. I specifically asked Greg today if the lift pump they supply for the Optimiser N/A is going to sufficient as it is maxed out, according to my instrumentation on board at 8psi at idle, then falls away to zero psi at 52LPHR. He replied I would need a "Sniper Pump' which was still running at 8PSI but higher volume at WOT. - another $200 thank you - so i am having a look on the net to see if i can find one, as the one I have on the vehicle and the spare i bought from BD, but later found them on the net at 1/4 of the price, delivered.

Regards pump he refers to a 300HP pump and its set up by the guy in WA, the Standyne expert. Before I take delivery of it I need to decide if I want to go 10psi or 16psi, as no doubt that will affect the pump calibration. the injectors are also supplied as Turbo spec, and these are also required. I am trading in my existing pump as part payment for the new one as mine has only done 5000klm

The SC is a Harrop 2300. I rang Harrop in Melbourne direct but they dont sell the inlet manifold or gaskets or the linkage assy for the throttle - not sure I need it, but will determine in due course. They did say they supply the SC to Bullet for their kit though. I think I will probably purchase it thru BD so at least i have some certainty of supply. I know Bullet have some skeletons in the closet and I tried to call them but the call went 'nowhere' and they have not answered my emails.

Regards the body lift, i am totally confused. I have two photos showing the snout and pulley is below the top of the oil filler cap, yet one guy in WA 'just did the lift to give a bit more clearance', and BD are saying it needs to be done. My issue is that its another thing to do, another issue with engineering to overcome and the ARB side Rails are going to hit the factory flares before i reach 25mm lift on the front, so this will require some surgery. I could leave the lift until its installed I guess, however the fan cowl needs to be manufactured to fit the duramax 11 blade fan, and it can't be made to cope with the possibility of the vehicle lift or not as the centre will be 25mm different - so need to make a decision and its do the lift, and know 100% the snout will fit and the fan will sit on the centreline of the cowl. I don't know the clearance or the effect of say making a circular fan operate in an elongated slot cowling??

Regards transmission I am going to stay with the manual for now as its what i prefer to use in the bush. I can't see me needing all this torque until i start towing something to be honest, but just being a torque pig should be fun, as long as the clutch can take it.

[PeeBee]

Being that you’re converting to a serpy belt system PeeBee mate you may not need the rollover body lift hopefully mate. No doubt you’ve done your research that only the NA V belts we currently have need the extended forward SC snout.
A custom fiberglass bonnet bump could look mean and make some more wiring space good man!



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Mark, still struggling to find out the ruth whether the 25mm lift is needed or not, so can't wait for a qualified answer as the cowl needs to be manufactured, so going with the lift anyway. Its a tiny shift to C.O.G., and don't expect to alter anything with our HC trips. Regards a custom bonnet like yours, well I did enquire at the time you got yours but that mob don't have a mould, so it got complicated and expensive. they wanted me to buy a bonnet, ship it to them, then place a minimum order of 5 units to get it down to what you paid - which i can't remember right now, so 'looking mean or not' its not in the budget.

I am going to address the wiring issue on day, but not right now. Its a bloody rats-nest i agree and impossible to trouble shoot.

[MB]

Baby steps good man, you’re a Legend!!
Get the big screws on top first then try and close the bonnet, decisions can be made then......and breath [emoji106][emoji106]


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[PeeBee]

No PB, I dont have a fuel pump, will watch with interest how the supercharger goes.
So, you are sure that the snout requires you to body lift then?
Did the WA guys say what Injector Pump they are running?, that torque puts it outside the range of the 6L90 I have.
I assume you are getting or have the Bullet kit?

cheers

Unfortunately I don't have the dyno results for the larger dia snout pulley running at 10psi. Whats the long life limit on the 6L90?

[PeeBee]

Baby steps good man, you’re a Legend!!
Get the big screws on top first then try and close the bonnet, decisions can be made then......and breath [emoji106][emoji106]


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Yeah I know, just trying to get things orderly in my mind as i only get small chunks of time usually for mods. This one will be a little different. I was hoping to do the engine pulley swap over the Xmas break, but looks like the custom 8 rib serpy pulleys might miss the xmas deadline. If thats the case i will do the body lift instead and chew on those lemons. Speaking with MudRunnerTD today about the process, he assures me its not too big a job, one person for a day should knock it, only the rear mounts require some access surgey to get to the bolt heads - checked it out tonight riefly and does not look too bad.

[PeeBee]

Sold mine yesterday :(:(:(:(:(

Alas there was only room for one stonking great V8 powered Patrol in my life so 'Big Red' is off to a new and loving home and 'Moby' the great white whale is the new big kahuna.

ET, now that it is sold, are you willing to share the photos of the endless air installation? You displayed some resistance when i was trying to sort mine out, but now that I am moving to the Serpy belt any help would be appreciated????

[MB]

Please please Philstar do take some roof rack weight off then mate if going up that extra 1” body higher. I personally would try everything else but that first honestly mate!!


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[PeeBee]

Please please Philstar do take some roof rack weight off then mate if going up that extra 1” body higher. I personally would try everything else but that first honestly mate!!


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I hear you, - but - I will see what goes, as really i have to be able to get it inside the garage as well and dont want to have the stuffing around of dropping tyre pressure for that!. I dont carry the galv box anymore so just roofrack, solar panel, 14klm of copper cable and some antennas, should be ok, but hear you load an clear.

[MB]

Great to hear mate, and truly honestly only trying to pay back a whisker of the best guidance off site you’ve always kindly given myself and closest!
COGravity coin would be best IMO spent on keeping the old faithful GQ beast low and slow with a set of GU stronger/wider axles my friend [emoji106][emoji106]




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[PeeBee]

Great to hear mate, and truly honestly only trying to pay back a whisker of the best guidance off site you’ve always kindly given myself and closest!
COGravity coin would be best IMO spent on keeping the old faithful GQ beast low and slow with a set of GU stronger/wider axles my friend [emoji106][emoji106]




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So where are you going to sit when I get the garage to handle the height of the portals? Hope you are not going to restrict me to the likes of jells park or Chadstone shopping centre? Yes they are 100mm wider, but 4" taller. Anyway. I am in no hurry for GU axles, mine have lasted just fine to date with the driving style i adopt.

[MB]

All I can say old mate is that two high horsepowered TD42Ti GQ’s live on the next hill over to ours. One is a lightweight usually solo driver with stock axles and super lightweight rack. Other is a family man with much baggage atop so opted for wider COG axles. Both are neck & neck comparatively acceptable IMO :-)


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[PeeBee]

All I can say old mate is that two high horsepowered TD42Ti GQ’s live on the next hill over to ours. One is a lightweight usually solo driver with stock axles and super lightweight rack. Other is a family man with much baggage atop so opted for wider COG axles. Both are neck & neck comparatively acceptable IMO :-)


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Gotcha, thanks, good way to put it.

[MB]

Fact trying/finding on the brews now here. Was told by a bloke visited near our Albury border last week that SCharged Optimizers fixing their cranks was quite regular for him before?
https://dewarsengines.com.au/chevrolet-diesel-engines/
Nissannewby & OldMav strongly advised me too against SC our 6.5’s years ago.
Must say, old Wal on the border and his top mount turbo air/water cooled system looked pretty descent!???
Happy with my NA twactor climbing (soon again) just food for thought :-)



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[poindexter]

I am surprised you were not sold one with the big injector pump? I know that mine (existing)needs the pre-charge. We did a high country trip last year and I managed to pull a connector apart and disable the pump, the thing ran like a limp dog, soon as i found the issue and plugged it back in, all the smoking and carry on ceased. I specifically asked Greg today if the lift pump they supply for the Optimiser N/A is going to sufficient as it is maxed out, according to my instrumentation on board at 8psi at idle, then falls away to zero psi at 52LPHR. He replied I would need a "Sniper Pump' which was still running at 8PSI but higher volume at WOT. - another $200 thank you - so i am having a look on the net to see if i can find one, as the one I have on the vehicle and the spare i bought from BD, but later found them on the net at 1/4 of the price, delivered.

Regards pump he refers to a 300HP pump and its set up by the guy in WA, the Standyne expert. Before I take delivery of it I need to decide if I want to go 10psi or 16psi, as no doubt that will affect the pump calibration. the injectors are also supplied as Turbo spec, and these are also required. I am trading in my existing pump as part payment for the new one as mine has only done 5000klm

The SC is a Harrop 2300. I rang Harrop in Melbourne direct but they dont sell the inlet manifold or gaskets or the linkage assy for the throttle - not sure I need it, but will determine in due course. They did say they supply the SC to Bullet for their kit though. I think I will probably purchase it thru BD so at least i have some certainty of supply. I know Bullet have some skeletons in the closet and I tried to call them but the call went 'nowhere' and they have not answered my emails.

Regards the body lift, i am totally confused. I have two photos showing the snout and pulley is below the top of the oil filler cap, yet one guy in WA 'just did the lift to give a bit more clearance', and BD are saying it needs to be done. My issue is that its another thing to do, another issue with engineering to overcome and the ARB side Rails are going to hit the factory flares before i reach 25mm lift on the front, so this will require some surgery. I could leave the lift until its installed I guess, however the fan cowl needs to be manufactured to fit the duramax 11 blade fan, and it can't be made to cope with the possibility of the vehicle lift or not as the centre will be 25mm different - so need to make a decision and its do the lift, and know 100% the snout will fit and the fan will sit on the centreline of the cowl. I don't know the clearance or the effect of say making a circular fan operate in an elongated slot cowling??

Regards transmission I am going to stay with the manual for now as its what i prefer to use in the bush. I can't see me needing all this torque until i start towing something to be honest, but just being a torque pig should be fun, as long as the clutch can take it.

I specifically did not want BD to supply the pump, as I will go AirDog or FASS.
BD made no mention of body lift to me, as this will affect the fan shroud on the rad, my preference is to run no body lift.
The 6L90 is rated to 900Nm so the boost will need to be moderate.
My P400 has one of those 300HP pumps fitted, will be keen to see if there are local to us guys that can tune them.

[poindexter]

Fact trying/finding on the brews now here. Was told by a bloke visited near our Albury border last week that SCharged Optimizers fixing their cranks was quite regular for him before?
https://dewarsengines.com.au/chevrolet-diesel-engines/
Nissannewby & OldMav strongly advised me too against SC our 6.5’s years ago.
Must say, old Wal on the border and his top mount turbo air/water cooled system looked pretty descent!???
Happy with my NA twactor climbing (soon again) just food for thought :-)



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Do the Optimiser's have the forged crank?

[MB]

Not sure Ralph mate.


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[PeeBee]

Do the Optimiser's have the forged crank?

No, induction hardened cast iron

[PeeBee]

Fact trying/finding on the brews now here. Was told by a bloke visited near our Albury border last week that SCharged Optimizers fixing their cranks was quite regular for him before?
https://dewarsengines.com.au/chevrolet-diesel-engines/
Nissannewby & OldMav strongly advised me too against SC our 6.5’s years ago.
Must say, old Wal on the border and his top mount turbo air/water cooled system looked pretty descent!???
Happy with my NA twactor climbing (soon again) just food for thought :-)



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You cant successfully turbo the GQ due to under bonnet heat retention. I will stick with the smaller boost I recon and go the body lift unless I can get a definite clearance height really quick that says i dont need it.

[poindexter]

No, induction hardened cast iron

I should be ok then as the P400 come with a forged crank.

[PeeBee]

I should be ok then as the P400 come with a forged crank.

I am not concerned in the slightest at 10psi boost, will be fine. The turbos are set up at 15 - 18psi on these motors anyway.

[PeeBee]

I specifically did not want BD to supply the pump, as I will go AirDog or FASS.
BD made no mention of body lift to me, as this will affect the fan shroud on the rad, my preference is to run no body lift.
The 6L90 is rated to 900Nm so the boost will need to be moderate.
My P400 has one of those 300HP pumps fitted, will be keen to see if there are local to us guys that can tune them.

What is the difference or why your preference for the FOSS or AIRDOG - I know nothing about these pumps and would appreciate the feedback before I commit to the BD solution.
thanks

[poindexter]

What is the difference or why your preference for the FOSS or AIRDOG - I know nothing about these pumps and would appreciate the feedback before I commit to the BD solution.
thanks

The guys over in the states run these, they include water trap and aeration removal

https://pureflowairdog.com/

https://fassride.com/

https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/fass-vs-airdog-you-decide.12100/

[PeeBee]

The guys over in the states run these, they include water trap and aeration removal

https://pureflowairdog.com/

https://fassride.com/

https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/fass-vs-airdog-you-decide.12100/

Thanks Ralph, I have had a look and I think I am on top of the filtration, just need to mull over the fuel delivery system.

Now, finally tracked down Bullet cars as they had a Telstra outage last week, hence why no phone calls or emails, and here is what they have told me

1) the 300hp pump is actually closer to 275

2) boost ranges are dia 65 pulley - 18psi, dia 70 pulley - 14-15psi, dia 75 pulley 10-12. I am going with the 14-15psi option.

3) no body lift required - they are 100% certain of this

4) they have been supercharging these engines for 8 yrs and never had any feedback re engine reliability. They do still get warm though as would be expected and I am ready for that.

5) torque is 900NM at 14psi boost

[MB]

That’s all great news mate, happy days!
900Nm through your 85% reduction gears and you’ll be able to rip some tracks D9 styling [emoji106][emoji106]




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[PeeBee]

The guys over in the states run these, they include water trap and aeration removal

https://pureflowairdog.com/

https://fassride.com/

https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/fass-vs-airdog-you-decide.12100/

poindexter, I had a look and thats really interesting about the entrained air into the fuel. I think I might just pick up one of the Raptor pumps -don't have room for the air/water separator system, and whilst this unit does not remove entrained air, it would I think limit the turbulence inside the fuel lines that form cavitating air pockets I think. great bit of info. Thanks.

[poindexter]

What fuel pressure do you think you will run?

[PeeBee]

What fuel pressure do you think you will run?

I am guessing 5-8 psig at WOT to ensure there is no negative load on the pump. I am basing this on an idle condition now where i have 8, that falls to zero at redline revs and the engine is running out of punch, which might be normal, but am thinking it would be better to have a constant pre-charge on the injection pump right thru the range. So, if I base this on what I have now, I would want a pump that has a capacity of say 15psig and yet to know what the flowrate is though. My Optimiser taps out at 52lpHR. What do you think? This would basically give me a constant 8psi pre charge on the injection pump right thru the rev range.

Or better still a constant pressure pump at 8psig, but no doubt more expensive.

[poindexter]

I was thinking that 8psi may be a bit low. Some of the US guys run 25psi.
Have you any recommendations from Bullet or BD?
What will you do for the exhaust?

[PeeBee]

I was thinking that 8psi may be a bit low. Some of the US guys run 25psi.
Have you any recommendations from Bullet or BD?
What will you do for the exhaust?

Nothing about pressure from BD, only flow increase but Greg is playing that close so he can supply a pump I recon! I can ask the question of Bullet and let you know. Regards exhaust I am probably going to increase from where the cross over pipes join, and flare up to 4" from 3". I think there is a company in Aust - pacemaker? that makes a set of headers for this motor, so that will come later I reckon.

[poindexter]

I was thinking of doing exhaust design like this. Which is the same as what Marks 4wd sells for the LS conversions
77111

[PeeBee]

That looks great. I doubt I would have the room though to be honest - GQ is very skinny. I will start off with the 3" then do the 4" expansion as noted.

[threedogs]

Hi all just talking with a mate who just brought a brunswick diesel GU 6.5 TD.
he asked me if he needs to laminate the front diff?
Plus as hes only had it a week it overheated last week when it was hot any suggestion?
Any imput would be great, TID|A

[PeeBee]

Hi all just talking with a mate who just brought a brunswick diesel GU 6.5 TD.
he asked me if he needs to laminate the front diff?
Plus as hes only had it a week it overheated last week when it was hot any suggestion?
Any imput would be great, TID|A

I think MB is your man for the GU as he seems to have his running cooler than originally.

[PeeBee]

I was thinking that 8psi may be a bit low. Some of the US guys run 25psi.
Have you any recommendations from Bullet or BD?
What will you do for the exhaust?

Bullet advised me today that 8PSI is the number. They don't see the need for a greater pressure. Flow increase - yes, and they would not give me a number - no idea why - I will ask again. Its getting a bit frustrating right now.

Have asked the question of both Bullet and Brunswick and both declined or avoided to advise the required flowrate. Pretty annoyed, but now have both of them supposedly wanting to supply a suitable lift pump - will see what I finally find out. Either way, it does not sound like they are putting too much application energy into the selection, more that they are using pumps readily avail in Aussie market.

[PeeBee]

OK< S/C ordered, additional accelerator cable bracket ordered, return fuel line kit ordered, 320HP pump ordered, 8 turbo injectors ordered, just need a TD42 accelerator cable to interchange with the existing.

Delivery could be before Xmas but depends on availability of the 8 rib pulley sets that are custom for this installation. Looking at filters now, like the look of the K&N washable units, have checked there is a size that will suit the application, circa 300mm long x 150mm diameter x 90 ID, looking for alternate options - think a cylindrical pleated will fit best for me. Air to and from filter box to be 100mm, fed from 100mm SS snorkel.

[MB]

I think MB is your man for the GU as he seems to have his running cooler than originally.

Much cooler for its purpose built slow high country stuff now, wouldn’t recommend twin electric fan setups for highway purposes though threedogs mate.
I can highly recommend these Thermostat’s (2 needed) as was found so too do many many yanks.
Video below showing Rainsey on here years back of the difference between Aussie ‘Tridon-82C’ versus Yanky ‘ACDelco-88C’

https://youtu.be/Z5v9x4FFjng

FWIW: The US Military specs for 6.5 water temps is 88C minimum to absolute max 125C.



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[poindexter]

OK< S/C ordered, additional accelerator cable bracket ordered, return fuel line kit ordered, 320HP pump ordered, 8 turbo injectors ordered, just need a TD42 accelerator cable to interchange with the existing.

Delivery could be before Xmas but depends on availability of the 8 rib pulley sets that are custom for this installation. Looking at filters now, like the look of the K&N washable units, have checked there is a size that will suit the application, circa 300mm long x 150mm diameter x 90 ID, looking for alternate options - think a cylindrical pleated will fit best for me. Air to and from filter box to be 100mm, fed from 100mm SS snorkel.

Did you end going with Bullet or BD for the kit?

[PeeBee]

I seemed to be getting stuffed around by Bullet, and their past was worrying me, plus BD gets a pretty healthy discount, which he passed on about $400 of saving - no idea what he buys them for but I have his quote and its about $700 cheaper, however as normal, there ends up being a raft of extras that are not included. For example, you need to upgrade the fuel return line and there is a kit for that; there is also a requirement to buy the 'under manifold' throttle kit, plus source a Nissan TD42 throttle cable to mate with it as the HD unit BD supplies with the N/A system wont fit anymore. So I went with BD as they will be my interface with Bullet and BD takes the risk essentially and also has the relationship and knows them better. The s/c will be avail somewhere around jan 14 but could arrive sooner if they put it together and send later this week, Bullet are shut from Dec 21 to Jan 14. I am waiting for confirmation from BD if I will get their side of things before Xmas as they are waiting for the 8 rib pulleys. Bullet have ordered the 8 rib pulley for mine today. On a positive side with Bullet they did send me the PDF of the SC installation instructions.

[MB]

I was thinking of doing exhaust design like this. Which is the same as what Marks 4wd sells for the LS conversions
77111
Please do pause on that purchase for a bit Ralph mate. Pretty sure my currently shed bound big donk GU has stock zaust manifolds pointing near straight down on the arse end!
Our GU firewalls are a hell of a lot closer than I too can remember mate :-)


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[PeeBee]

Please do pause on that purchase for a bit Ralph mate. Pretty sure my currently shed bound big donk GU has stock zaust manifolds pointing near straight down on the arse end!
Our GU firewalls are a hell of a lot closer than I too can remember mate :-)


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I think he was showing more as a concept that actual MB. But good point to mention. I have even less room than you guys so cant do that config. Looking last night at the injectors to remove - holy hell its going to be a mission!

[PeeBee]

Spoke with the VASS engineer today about putting thru engineering once the S/C is fitted and what else needs to be done in preparation. He claims I need to install a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust. Does anyone have experience with these? I did a web check and they are big, restrictive and expensive, yet BD says he gets his for a sell price of $250 each - doesn't sound like the same thing. My vehicle is a 1997, and i would have thought it would be exempt, apparently its a change right across the board. Apart from that, nothing else, no brake test as already done, happy days, just hand over the cash./

[poindexter]

Spoke with the VASS engineer today about putting thru engineering once the S/C is fitted and what else needs to be done in preparation. He claims I need to install a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust. Does anyone have experience with these? I did a web check and they are big, restrictive and expensive, yet BD says he gets his for a sell price of $250 each - doesn't sound like the same thing. My vehicle is a 1997, and i would have thought it would be exempt, apparently its a change right across the board. Apart from that, nothing else, no brake test as already done, happy days, just hand over the cash./

Hi PB that's is correct, get a "100 cell cat" for the least resistance to flow, welcome to the new world we live in......

[PeeBee]

Hi PB that's is correct, get a "100 cell cat" for the least resistance to flow, welcome to the new world we live in......

Thanks, I will see if this is what BD are supplying - are they as cheap as $250 and restrictive. Greg claims this thing wont blow much due to the forced induction - I really have no idea if thats true or not, but suspect it will make Victoria disappear at WOT!!

[PeeBee]

poindexter, is this what I need? Just have to add it to exhaust - does it go before or after the muffler? I can buy it also without flanges

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VL-VN-VP-VR-VS-BOLT-IN-CAT-CONVERTER-3-HIGH-FLOW-100-CELL-STAINLESS-STEEL/282339894414?hash=item41bcc4e48e:g:t0QAAOSw2xRYk-zL:rk:21:pf:0

or this one
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DEA-3-INCH-100-CELL-CPSI-CPI-METAL-CORE-RACE-CAT-CONVERTER-STAINLESS-BODY/252579308104?epid=7006822334&hash=item3acee66248:rk:15:pf:0

Certainly dont want to tip any more money out of my bank than required. Hassle i have though is finding a local exhaust hoist with a 4t hoist - guy in Knoxfield has a 3 ton unit and it struggled.

[poindexter]

poindexter, is this what I need? Just have to add it to exhaust - does it go before or after the muffler? I can buy it also without flanges

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VL-VN-VP-VR-VS-BOLT-IN-CAT-CONVERTER-3-HIGH-FLOW-100-CELL-STAINLESS-STEEL/282339894414?hash=item41bcc4e48e:g:t0QAAOSw2xRYk-zL:rk:21:pf:0

or this one
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DEA-3-INCH-100-CELL-CPSI-CPI-METAL-CORE-RACE-CAT-CONVERTER-STAINLESS-BODY/252579308104?epid=7006822334&hash=item3acee66248:rk:15:pf:0

Certainly dont want to tip any more money out of my bank than required. Hassle i have though is finding a local exhaust hoist with a 4t hoist - guy in Knoxfield has a 3 ton unit and it struggled.

Hi PB, yes that is the sort of thing you need, I believe there are diesel specific ones to get, and as close to the engine as practical

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60011-Diesel-Universal-Fit-4-Inlet-Outlet-Catalytic-Converter-6-Round-Body-/192233038146

[PeeBee]

Hi PB, yes that is the sort of thing you need, I believe there are diesel specific ones to get, and as close to the engine as practical

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60011-Diesel-Universal-Fit-4-Inlet-Outlet-Catalytic-Converter-6-Round-Body-/192233038146

Many thanks Ralph. I think the closest point it would fit is after the cross over pipes join, simply no room and the would need to be 3" or 1/75" as well. I will delay until I decide what to do with the exhaust and if going up to 4" will put the cat right at the start. Any idea how restrictive they are? BD reckons install it, get the cert. and then rip it out. I guess though if its missing and i get hauled over i could be in the PooPoo.

[PeeBee]

poindexter, I checked for diesel specific and the only ones listed in Aust are 200/inch and still rated high flow - what do you think? I am guessing the double density must add restriction for the same diameter? I have also asked the question around certificate for compliance just in case/

[poindexter]

What some guys have done: they put a cat on that has been drilled out, so when the filth rap the cat it doesn't sound hollow.
Don't put a straight pipe on, as that would be too obvious.

[PeeBee]

I contacted the VASS engineer again today and he wants a 200 cell/inch unit installed, not 100. I have asked the question of the suppliers regards pressure drop and cell density, but no answer as yet. The 200 is a Euro 5 spec

Called BD again today regards the flowrates for the lift pump and the WOT condition, explaining my CAV unit is way loo small - rated at 45LPM when clean, so waiting on that info. Also have dropped a line to Western Filters for a suitable unit based on 400lpHR and see what they come back with - will adjust the selection once BD comes back also.

[poindexter]

Next time you talk to BD, ask who can tune these beasts in Melbourne.

[PeeBee]

Have already asked Ralph, no comment. I think the mob I will be taking mine to is Cornell's out in the north west of Melb. There was a mob down in Dandenong that had a handle on the Standyne pumps, but I think they have changed hands or something like that and the outcome is not so good. Rossco had his truck tuned there recently with good results and they have a dyno as well. I don't know if the fella in Lilydale would be interested.

[MB]

Don’t know too much about tuning diesels, let alone our old school mechanical Standyne jobbies. A mate in Lilydale whispered to me years back there aint much fine tweaking ability in these pumps. Smoking or Non-Smoking was my two black options was told?


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[PeeBee]

Mark, funny you say that at BD are telling me the same, but the guy with the SC in WA I am talking with had his dyno tuned to get it running sweet after he changed the nose pulley, so maybe that simply entails adjusting the fuel rate into the pump. BD tell me the swap over process for mine is plug and play. I am still wondering about the whole 'timing of the pump' issue that seems to be an important part of the TD42 journey when a pump is changed.

[nissannewby]

Mark, funny you say that at BD are telling me the same, but the guy with the SC in WA I am talking with had his dyno tuned to get it running sweet after he changed the nose pulley, so maybe that simply entails adjusting the fuel rate into the pump. BD tell me the swap over process for mine is plug and play. I am still wondering about the whole 'timing of the pump' issue that seems to be an important part of the TD42 journey when a pump is changed.

Chev pumps are a peice of cake. They are pin timed. You do have a small amount of adjustment for timing but not a lot. Line the marks up. Pull the pump off. Line the pin up and put the new one on.

[PeeBee]

Chev pumps are a peice of cake. They are pin timed. You do have a small amount of adjustment for timing but not a lot. Line the marks up. Pull the pump off. Line the pin up and put the new one on.

Thanks Matt, have asked the question of BD but as usual not get an answer.

[poindexter]

PB, I'm assuming you got the intercooler intake manifold?
Which will mean a pump and radiator are required as well.

[PeeBee]

PB, I'm assuming you got the intercooler intake manifold?
Which will mean a pump and radiator are required as well.

No I am not going with an intercooler at this time. If I do, I will go with a water to air unit modified using the A/C gas as one of the guys did up in Nth Qld. I didn't like the pancake assy between the blower and the inlet manifold. I am going to stick with the currnt radiator I have for now, but have ordered a Duramax fan and new radiator cowling, plus will still have my 2500cfm booster electric fan on the front of the radiator for low speed driving - only gets warm at high rpm/slow speed stuff. BD do have a custom aluminium unit they get made but its 1900 and I may not need it. What are you proposing for yours?

[poindexter]

I have this setup:
77125

[PeeBee]

Nice, where did you buy that from? What size/make blower? [ can't quite read the name on the blower)How many ribs on that serpy belt - 6 or 8?

[poindexter]

Hi PB, it's the Bullet kit, TE2300 is the supercharger, I think it's 6 rib, but haven't checked.
I'm trying to run this belt setup for my engine, without vac pump.
77126

[PeeBee]

OK, I have upgraded my pulleys to 8 rib because the 6 ribs stretch very quickly. BD is currently making 3 sets of 8 ribs, one for me, the guy I am speaking with in WA who has the Optimiser wirt 65mm pulley and a guy in cairns. Bullet are upgrading the nose pulley to 8 rib and have acknowledged the shortened life of the 6. With your beast I am tipping the 6 will last a very short time. So which vac pump are you going with? My upgrade from BD has the vac pump but unsure if its on the back of the alternator or otherwise - must check that. Also, am upgrading the alternator to a 140amp unit. Once I have it in hand will see if I can get a higher capacity in the same frame size - greg isn';t much help in this regard. That is the same kit as i am getting, I think.

[poindexter]

Who's 8 rib pulley did you go for at the crank?

[PeeBee]

Who's 8 rib pulley did you go for at the crank?

Greg is getting them made by a guy in Coffs harbour. The Bullet guys are supplying the 8 rib by their methods. Because of this change, I wont get the parts until mid Jan now.

[Rossco]

Have already asked Ralph, no comment. I think the mob I will be taking mine to is Cornell's out in the north west of Melb. There was a mob down in Dandenong that had a handle on the Standyne pumps, but I think they have changed hands or something like that and the outcome is not so good. Rossco had his truck tuned there recently with good results and they have a dyno as well. I don't know if the fella in Lilydale would be interested.Yeah very happy with my experience and result with Cornells. Fair mission but got a courtesy car which is a massive help.

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[PeeBee]

poindexter, subject to pressure and flowrate confirmation on Tuesday, I think I am going with an Aeroflot lift pump and an air dog air separator/filter combo. The lift pump is rated at 14psi@150gphr and the deaerstor or assy has a 6um filtration. No moving parts in filter assy and pumps are around the $90 so easy to carry a spare. Seems like a better combo than the totally integrated setups at $1200 and I will struggle to find a spot for it due to size. Have you decided which way you are going yet?

[PeeBee]

OK, changed my mind on the deaeration filter/lift pump after speaking with AirDog in the US last night. The gains are quite small and the units are so large in size as they are pitched at the earthmoving, transportation and static engine market, rather than the pedestrian SUV/4WD market. I was looking at the 'CHAMP' range which was a filter sitting under a de-aeration head, then feeding it with a separate lift pump. This assy gave me a greater sense of reliability. Anyway, after getting the price, excluding the mark-up by a local agent in WA, it came to just under $1400. Based on a minimal fuel saving achieved by the unit, and the fact they have never sold a unit for such a small engine, I am opting for a fleetguard filter upgrade to handle the flow from an Aerofloat lift pump. I am still waiting on the fuel supply range to be furnished by BD, but this seems to fit better with my setup. The filter is rated at 300LPHR and the lift pump circa 440LPHR at 9psi and 300LPHR at 14psi. Filters are in the order of $120 each with a filtration rating of 2,5,6 and 30 um, and they also screen out water. The lift pump is circa $90- each. My system will be as follows - Tank, 100um pre screen mesh, 30um Fleetguard unit with primer top, Aerofloat primer pump - all located above the rear diff area, then another Fleetguard filter with either a 2 or 5um final filter, then the flow meter, pressure transmitter, to the injection pump, returning to tank with a larger return line than standard and the second flow meter for the on-board trip computer.So $330 and I reckon that should be satisfactory, and cheap enough to hold a spare lift pump in hand. The CAV 296 filter assy as currently installed is rated at 45LPHR max flow, so this will be relocated to provide filtration between the belly tank and the main tank, replacing the small RYCO in-line unit.

[poindexter]

PB,

This is from AirDog's web site:

https://pureflowairdog.com/

PureFlow AirDog® manufactures and supplies AirDog® Fuel Air Separation Systems and Raptor® high performance lift pumps for diesel pick-up trucks. PureFlow AirDog products are the only true air separation systems on the diesel market today and Raptor fuel pumps offer increased performance with a budget in mind. AirDog and AirDog II-4G products remove all entrained air, water, and particulates down to 2 micron from your diesel fuel. This helps increase fuel mileage, horsepower and torque, all while extending the life of your injection system parts.

looks to me that they are in fact made for pickup trucks, not earth moving business, you sure you talked to the right guys?

[PeeBee]

Yep, Pureflowairdog, Pureflow technologies, Airdogdiesel, guy I spoke with at 2am this morning is also a diesel mechanic/technician. He says you 'might' get between 0.3 - 1mpg improvement. They work but the gains are minimal on smaller engines like ours. He seemed to know his stuff. I am not going this path at that price and projected outcome. From a technical perspective I see merit, but it does not stack up from a 'returns' perspective for the cost.

[poindexter]

Putting in a 6.5 diesel in a patrol is not a "returns" endeavour...... just sayin.

[PeeBee]

Putting in a 6.5 diesel in a patrol is not a "returns" endeavour...... just sayin.

Fair enough, but in all respects, spending upwards of $1400 on a component that the supplier declares will have negligible gain doesn't make sense - I would rather spend it on a high performance intercooler for example. If it works for you, and you can see the benefit,that's great, no issue and I look forward to getting some feedback in the longer term if you go that way.

[poindexter]

I hear what you are saying, I'm leaning towards the Airdog solution, so comparative data might be available between us down the road.

[poindexter]

PB, what were you planning to do with the exhaust, I'm guessing a drive by will be required for noise.

[PeeBee]

I am thinking I will install the supercharger and get it running thru the 3", then add the smog piece, then depending on the timing, head down to the VASS guy shortly afterwards. I asked the VASS guy what he wanted to see and the smog device was all he mentioned. If he wants a drive by I will see if i can take it easy, but mine is pretty quiet now. I will have had enough of the car by then I reckon, so will probably park it up. Bit unsure where I will be with work as well, could well be interstate for the first 4 - 5 months of 2019, so just have to play it by ear. Parts dont arrive until the 3rd week of jan at this stage. Post that I will open it up to 4" after the smog device - unsure who will do this at the moment.

Greg from BD is getting his pump guy to do a WOT flow test on the big pump either wedor thursday, so we will know what the flowrate needs to be for the pump volume no later than friday.

[PeeBee]

I hear what you are saying, I'm leaning towards the Airdog solution, so comparative data might be available between us down the road.

Here is the de-aeration filter kit recommended by AirDog this morning, just for comparison with what you are looking at. 165 4G Kit A6SABC108

[poindexter]

Here is the de-aeration filter kit recommended by AirDog this morning, just for comparison with what you are looking at. 165 4G Kit A6SABC108

The e-mail I got from airdog recommended the 100 kit, but more than likely, if I do go airdog, I'll go the 165.

[PeeBee]

FASS came back this morning also with this model for comparison, TD02 095G

Regards lift pump pressure and flowrate, here is what they said, which is aligning with the over supply statement you made in an earlier post re pump pressure.

We will normally flow quite a bit more than the injection pump. This will allow us to maintain full pressure even at WOT. We normally try to get a horsepower rating of the engine or a required flow rate for the injection pump to determine which FASS pump flow rate will work best for you. If you are looking to run about 200RWKW then I would recommend a T D02 095G Titanium Series for a 89-93 Dodge. A 95G would support approximately 450RWKW. The T D02 kit would be the closest match to your application

[PeeBee]

Smog device arrived today - there is no way its going to stay as supplied, its simply so dense that the engine is going to choke. Its the 200 cell/inch unit as required by the VASS engineer.

[poindexter]

Flange it, run it, have it pass, then ditch it.....

[PeeBee]

Flange it, run it, have it pass, then ditch it.....

Yep, bought 3 sets of flanges just for that. It would be like trying to exhaust thru a pillow

[PeeBee]

Ordered the pump today, 440lphr, 14 psi. Got a spare as well. Started reading the forums in USA, alarm bells at anything over about 25psi it seemed, but that might have been from electronics? Anyway, seemed that a precharge of a couple of PSI at WOT, up to 5PSI was a 'norm' and gave good performance and reliability. Still waiting on BD advice, simply gave up and based the selection on the avail flowrates.

[MB]

Learning here with great interest good blokes!
Can only put forward that I now do believe when my old GU6.5NA gets beyond say 45 degrees upskis mountains that her lift pump must be undersized?
Quite the freaky experience when they suck air I guess and powerband beyond our control totally losing traction experienced:-(


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[PeeBee]

I have proven the Brunswick installed lift pump I'd too small from a flow and pressure perspective , so even for the n/a version, consider the Aerofloat "blue" fuel pump. It's rated at 440 lphr at 14psi and is the one I am upgrading to for the s/c. This pump is used by another guy with the same coho as mine will be and he has 70000klm under his belt with it. They are about $100 delivered and common supply ex Aussie. You can go to many other variants and costs but there seems to be a lot of pumps avail at this spec and also at slightly higher flowrate and pressure in the 20 to 25psi band as well

[MB]

Getting one for sure then thanks mate!
Quized Old Wal near Wodonga on my issues experienced up big hills and he reckoned no doubt the stock LP was either playing up or only built for flat highway stuff. If we look at their IP’s being so high up in the valley then invert the trucks it really is a long way up from the rear main ute tanks :-(


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[matfew]

This smog device you got peebee is it a dpf or cat. Think I read you said the vass engine wanted to see a dpf?

I know some later 2000 model diesels had a cat but only in last few years have dpf been getting around.

You'll find that cat will flow okish but diesels do breathe so much more down low then petrols.

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[PeeBee]

Its a dpf I believe, the 200 is the one rated for the european market. Its what he wants for the certificate, but its wound so dense that flow is going to be choked - wont be in for long.

[PeeBee]

This one @MB, it is kitted for diesel use, only one in their range that is.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aeroflow-110GPH-14-PSI-Blue-Electric-Fuel-Pump-AF49-1009-for-Holley-Demon-Carb/171977020549?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[poindexter]

Its a dpf I believe, the 200 is the one rated for the european market. Its what he wants for the certificate, but its wound so dense that flow is going to be choked - wont be in for long.

Should be a Diesel CAT
DPF need to have a re-gen cycle to burn off diesel particulate material, which can not be done in our installation.

[PeeBee]

Should be a Diesel CAT
DPF need to have a re-gen cycle to burn off diesel particulate material, which can not be done in our installation.

Apologies, yes poindexter, you are correct, here is what I have purchased and received.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-INCH-200-CELL-CAT-CONVERTER-HIGH-FLOW-PETROL-DIESEL-STAINLESS-STEEL/172242860899?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=471065181491&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[PeeBee]

Still waiting on flow rate info on the big pump. Apparently no one asks for this sort of information these days??? Like maybe we are all telepathic, or dr Google can supply the answers?/ Anyway, revised date is jan 3 2019, so will advise when and if it evr arrives.

[poindexter]

When Greg did my pump, he had to wait for it from the USA, so I'm thinking all the expertise is "over there"....

[nissannewby]

Still waiting on flow rate info on the big pump. Apparently no one asks for this sort of information these days??? Like maybe we are all telepathic, or dr Google can supply the answers?/ Anyway, revised date is jan 3 2019, so will advise when and if it evr arrives.

Can be calculated from the hp you want.
At 200rwkw you will want nothing less than 150L/hr. So you would aiming for higher so 200L/hr. So if you have a target hp then it can be approximated.

[nissannewby]

Can be calculated from the hp you want.
At 200rwkw you will want nothing less than 150L/hr. So you would aiming for higher so 200L/hr. So if you have a target hp then it can be approximated.

A carter 4601 pump is also a good option as a lift pump.

[PeeBee]

A carter 4601 pump is also a good option as a lift pump.

Thanks Matt, I have gone with an Aeroflow that supplies 440lphr open flow and I think has a rated flow of 250lphr at 9psi and a max pressure of 14psi

[PeeBee]

Can be calculated from the hp you want.
At 200rwkw you will want nothing less than 150L/hr. So you would aiming for higher so 200L/hr. So if you have a target hp then it can be approximated.

Matt, out of curiosity, can you send a link or show me how this is calculated?

[PeeBee]

Starting to get real, parts finally arriving, CAT and fuel filters. Delivery of system now pushed back to late Jan to allow the entire kit to be trial fitted in WA before sending to me. The S/C has to come from Brisbane, still waiting on the custom 8 rib serpentine pulleys though. Lift pumps due early Jan as well.771917719277193

[MB]

Out of curiosity too gents, with apparent current Lift Pump issues experienced and finally now known on my old 6.5NA clacker. Is there any issues with me installing either of the higher output kindly recommended variants above?
Do honestly like the idea of future proofing the old beast in case oneday I seek more Kw/Nm but just don’t want to stuff a pump on the old twactor lazy demands in its current state.
Do these rippers all being discussed above possibly crap out with their great pressure and flow rates being unused, tank returns sort it all out maybe hopefully?
BTW: Merry Christmas Chevstar’s [emoji106][emoji106]



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[PeeBee]

MB from what I am reading a lift pump around the 14=16-20PSI max is what you want to head towards. Some guys in the US run higher without issue, some have problems with electronic error messages, but they are all running the PMD units which we dont have. The pump Matt recdt is rated at 15psi and the aeroflow at 14psi. The Aeroflo is half the cost of the Carter. BD used to supply the carter but have moved away from it and have been installing the Aeroflow, and I know of one guy in WA with the setup i am heading towards that has had the same Aeroflo charging his SC rig for 70,000k without issue and he has cranked it up to the 65mm pulley and not changed the pump.

One thing to remember is just because the pump has the capacity to pump to a higher pressure does not mean it pumps at that unless you have a pressure sustaining loop, which you don't. I have found with my current small BD pump that pre-charge pressure to the Standyne Pump is 9psi at idle and normally around 4-5psi driving and then 0 at WOT but more like 1psi. The pressure is only the system resistance anyway, so if you up the flowrate you will get higher precharge pressure if the pump can deliver it, BUT remember, 90% of the fuel is returning to the tank anyway, so really if you think about it, you just need the demand flowrate to the injector pump plus some nominal precharge pressure to satisfy the demand. I can't see the point of having say a massive over supply if most is going back to the tank. Also, higher pressure = higher current on the pump. I am expecting to see my idle pressure go up as the flowrate will be higher from the new pump, plus i am running thru a 2um filter instead of a 5um, however the filter is now matched flow wise to the pump. I have had both BD and Bullet tell me 9psi is the number, but at what point in the rev range - no comment, but zero at WOT is seem as normal in their eyes, but again, they don't measure it either.

So, another marathon answer!

And Merry Xmas to you and the family.

[MB]

Fair call on the Amps thanks mate, hearing that for me!
The Delco Remy 38si Alt in the shed is still awaiting installation too which means I’ll be offing the GQ Alt with rear mechanical vacuum pump and....on goes a planned 12v vacuum pump.
For someone like me who knows bugger all about elecy stuff I keep foolishly gravitating towards it all :-(
Mod’d trucks are like a hornets nest :-)



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[PeeBee]

Fair call on the Amps thanks mate, hearing that for me!
The Delco Remy 38si Alt in the shed is still awaiting installation too which means I’ll be offing the GQ Alt with rear mechanical vacuum pump and....on goes a planned 12v vacuum pump.
For someone like me who knows bugger all about elecy stuff I keep foolishly gravitating towards it all :-(
Mod’d trucks are like a hornets nest :-)



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I will be looking at the second alternator set-up again, and maybe get that endless air pump finally mounted! I think the Delco is going to be a bit too long for me though, shame as its a great unit for sure. Looking at the alternators avail ex US, there are a heap in the 300amp bracket for the suburban, which is the frame size I need to be looking at .

[PeeBee]

Fair call on the Amps thanks mate, hearing that for me!
The Delco Remy 38si Alt in the shed is still awaiting installation too which means I’ll be offing the GQ Alt with rear mechanical vacuum pump and....on goes a planned 12v vacuum pump.
For someone like me who knows bugger all about elecy stuff I keep foolishly gravitating towards it all :-(
Mod’d trucks are like a hornets nest :-)



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Chase up poindexter as I think he is going that way as well, so will have some choices and a shortlist I reckon.

[MB]

28si Delco might be your go mate.
Front standard mount much easier adaptation than the true tractor block usually mounted 38si beasts which I’m still scratching my head with but will find a way up top one day [emoji106]
EDIT: Whatever you end up choosing old mate, just remember you’re currently swapping back to a Serpentine belt system and many alternators like their Borg stock 38si are clockwise learnt and needed on my NA.
I’m sure you’re all over that as already known with NA V-Belts versus Serpy water pumps etc...

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[PeeBee]

28si Delco might be your go mate.
Front standard mount much easier adaptation than the true tractor block usually mounted 38si beasts which I’m still scratching my head with but will find a way up top one day [emoji106]
EDIT: Whatever you end up choosing old mate, just remember you’re currently swapping back to a Serpentine belt system and many alternators like their Borg stock 38si are clockwise learnt and needed on my NA.
I’m sure you’re all over that as already known with NA V-Belts versus Serpy water pumps etc...

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Can you do something like my setup with the alt on pass side - or is the airbox in the way? If not I think you will have a real challenge as there is no room down low on the drivers side for that monster. Could be back at the jack shaft design, which we can do for sure and long life.

[MB]

Absolutely love my Millweld GU airbox and custom 4” NA intake kindly done by Mill too mate! All sneaks perfectly past the Optima yellow top on its off the shelf second battery tray.
With your kind engineering experience the 38si can still be ‘Jackshaft’ mid mounted but recently leaning towards NA power steering pump relocation instead and bringing forward the beast Alt?


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[PeeBee]

Absolutely love my Millweld GU airbox and custom 4” NA intake kindly done by Mill too mate! All sneaks perfectly past the Optima yellow top on its off the shelf second battery tray.
With your kind engineering experience the 38si can still be ‘Jackshaft’ mid mounted but recently leaning towards NA power steering pump relocation instead and bringing forward the beast Alt?


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Good idea, watch out for the radiator hoses though from memory, or at least there is a tight spot. Also some mods to starter motor cable required. I was just able to squeeze my original hydraulic pump into a tiny hole there, but its half the size of the monster. Anyway, keep dreamin' about it.

[MB]

Will do thanks for the reminder Philstar! Most yanky trucks have the TS rad outlet opposite of which would be able to De-Aussie switch back if needed.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/12/418.jpg
I’d best get back to Santa wrapping kiddies pressies in the shed instead of Cheving :-)


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[PeeBee]

That thing is BIG!

[MB]

All done, nothing left but to skull some milk and crush cookies near the tree, messy fat bugger he is!!
FWIW: Alternator positioning experienced on all dusty wet Aussie trucks including our custom beasts is critical, albeit depending on ones highway only possible needs.
Some latest model LandCrabs near oil sump locations are proof of this according to an aftermarket wholesale manufacturer speaking with of sealed water cooled alternators fetching thousands of dollars to mine spec etc....


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[MB]

That thing is BIG!

Yes, I have a Little PeePee and need Serious Elecy to run my Twucky :-)



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[poindexter]

Just in case you guys don't know, I'll be running the Marks 4WD Hydroboost setup hence no vac pump.
Still interested about the 8 rib thing, as when at GM Powertrain I designed FEADs ( Front End Accessory Drives) and had no durability issues with 6 ribs, but then maybe something has changed.

Santa tracker has him on time guys......

Merry Christmas to you all.

[MB]

Merry Christmas to You and the Family too Ralph mate!


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[PeeBee]

Just in case you guys don't know, I'll be running the Marks 4WD Hydroboost setup hence no vac pump.
Still interested about the 8 rib thing, as when at GM Powertrain I designed FEADs ( Front End Accessory Drives) and had no durability issues with 6 ribs, but then maybe something has changed.

Santa tracker has him on time guys......

Merry Christmas to you all.

BD run a vac boosted clutch assy which makes the pedal feather light = are you doing something else instead? I have the hydro boost on the list also. great bit of established hardware.

[PeeBee]

Just in case you guys don't know, I'll be running the Marks 4WD Hydroboost setup hence no vac pump.
Still interested about the 8 rib thing, as when at GM Powertrain I designed FEADs ( Front End Accessory Drives) and had no durability issues with 6 ribs, but then maybe something has changed.

Santa tracker has him on time guys......

Merry Christmas to you all.

BD run a vac boosted clutch assy which makes the pedal feather light = are you doing something else instead? I have the hydro boost on the list also, great bit of established hardware.

There are a couple of guys running the 6 rib on the Harrop s/c and finding excessive belt stretch. Harrop know about it as they have a higher performance kit for the LS motors avail in 8 rib. I had not heard about it until speaking with the owner of one of the vehicles in WA and he was running out of belt adjustment every 10,000klm. BD blame Bullet for not upgrading from the start, but now it will be offered as a standard I believe.

[poindexter]

My under standing with the 8rib solution, has to do with slip more than stretch.
This is why the LSA has a separate belt track, so they run a larger crank pulley and thererfore larger supercharger pulley.
The Gates belts are quite good with stretch from my memory while at GM Powertrain. The focus where was belt slip, not stretch.
I'll run the 6rib and see how it goes.

Also, I'll be running an auto, so no clutch assist for me.

[PeeBee]

Yes you could be right, they slip then get tensioned up beyond their limit and stretch perhaps. I would really suggest you speak with both Bullet and BD as they are now selling this upgrade as a standard I believe. What peeved me was that that they knew about the issue and were ready to sell me the 6 rib, then admitted the 8 rib was the solution. I had to still pay the extra as the pulleys were custom made and probably got a refund on the kit from BD - no idea - cant follow his invoicing!

[poindexter]

Yes you could be right, they slip then get tensioned up beyond their limit and stretch perhaps. I would really suggest you speak with both Bullet and BD as they are now selling this upgrade as a standard I believe. What peeved me was that that they knew about the issue and were ready to sell me the 6 rib, then admitted the 8 rib was the solution. I had to still pay the extra as the pulleys were custom made and probably got a refund on the kit from BD - no idea - cant follow his invoicing!

The belts have a nominal tension force bandwidth, as supplied from the belt supplier, so, if you follow their specs, you can't over tension, with the supplied spring tension pulley.
I suspect what happens is that there is belt slip, and to compensate, the belts are over tensioned.
You get belt slip if the s/c pulley is too small, as many people over drive them to get more power.
This is bad FEAD design.
Anyway we will see how it goes.
I will not be rushing out to go 8rib. yet....

[PeeBee]

What pulley are you moving with?

[PeeBee]

Whats interesting is that the slip is supposedly happening at the s/c, yet that is the driven element, the crank is where the power is transmitted to the belt and the likely location of the slipping I would have thought. Or is the compression rate within the S/C too high a driven load, so the belt slips at the pump? Interesting.

I am going with a 70mm as standard and a 75mm as a back drop. 79 is in the region of 14-15psi and 75 in the region of 10-12psi

[poindexter]

Slip happens at the S/C pulley and is a function of "length of contact" which is why the smaller (overdriven) pulleys slip.

[PeeBee]

This is going to be really interesting as it plays out. From what I have been told, and the photos i have of the particular engine involved, it had a dia 75 6 rib, with close to a 185 deg wrap on the s/c pulley, and those belts were lasting less than 5000klm before they ran out of adjustment as they had stretched, ie were slipping so they were tensioned up. These belts were running on that engine as described for 70000klm. It was so bad the owner carried 4 spare belts with him as he does a fair bit of remote travel in WA. This is to produce a boost of circa 10-12psi, which is relatively tame i would have thought. He has now moved to the dia 65mm pulley, and is waiting for the 8 rib pulleys to arrive , same units as i am waiting for except i am staying with 70 and 75 dia.77194

[poindexter]

at 14psi this s/c will take some 80hp to drive......

what are they asking for the 8rib setup?

[PeeBee]

1800 plus whatever bullet charge for the pulley, maybe 250

[poindexter]

so 2k for about 4 pulleys, wow, where do I sign........

[PeeBee]

so 2k for about 4 pulleys, wow, where do I sign........

Yeah, i know, but what do you do otherwise. I don't have the time to stuff around getting a shop in Melb to machine them and I want them 'right;\' from the start, which is why the entire kit is being assembled in Bunbury then shipped over as a verified unit. I think the idlers are wider as well, as is the auto tensioner?

[threedogs]

PeeBee, do you recommend fitting a larger radiator.
My friend overheats on 30 degree days in Melb or does the engine heat
need to escape??

[PeeBee]

John, the overheating is probably something he will have to manage by driving to the conditions. I hear so much contradictory feedback its really hard to believe any of it. Physically increasing the depth of the radiator will have a slight improvement as the fin area will increase and increasing the water volume will have no effect at all as sooner or later all the water will be the same temp and its a closed system, so best bang for buck is increasing the area, but you will have a devil of a time unless you take to the front superstructure with a torch.

I have added bonnet gills, and the heat pours out of them but how effective they are as an improvement, I would say tiny in all honesty. Brunswick diesel have a new alloy radiator that does stay cooler than the standard, its about $1800 from memory. A guy I know had one fitted to his supercharged optimiser, towed a 2500kg caravan from Albany to close to the tip of cape York, going the back way on dirt roads, mostly at 100kmph and he claims it transformed the vehicle, even in 35 degC day and 90% humidity with the van on, reckons it never got over 5/8th hot on the factory gauge, but what that means in degC I dont know.

I am adding a modified Duramax 9 blade fan to mine and its claimed to shift a lot of air. I also have the big electric on the outside of the radiator for low speed work. I have not had a chance yet to test out for extra forced airflow, however its sure to make a difference. What i will say is that once the temp gets to 95 degC its very hard to reduce it, and from my experience its a fast track to 110 degC

I think I would start with ensuring the radiator he has is in good order, thermostats are perhaps renewed as well. We can go down to the 68degC units instead of the 88degC - I have these to swap over when i do the upgrade, but the literature says they are the right ones (88's), but they are just too close to the start of the runaway temp zone for my liking.

Since you cannot easily change the surface area, all you can do is affect the heat transfer rate by adding more airflow. You could try water sprays, AB has this setup on his and it works well I think, but its another system. I would look at additional airflow by checking the hub is in good order, change the mechanical fan to the duramax and add a big electric unit - biggest volume that would fit - MB has some pretty good units, mine shifts around 2500cfm from memory. Lastly have achat with Brunswick Diesels, theyn have been wrestling with this issue for years, never quite fixed it in all models they have converted but I think they have enough runs on the board to trust. Also, get hime to join the Chevy Optimiser and P400 facebook community - heaps of info and like this forum, no BS or haters from what I have encountered. Its a closed page group so you will need to request a join. Hope this helps.


EDIT - I took the car for a quick run just now and it got to about 82 deg C on and 62 degC off the radiator. When I got home and parked it in the garage I turned the electric fan on and boy does it pump some air out the bonnet gills, amazing.

[MB]

PeeBee, do you recommend fitting a larger radiator.
My friend overheats on 30 degree days in Melb or does the engine heat
need to escape??

As Phil kindly mentions John mate, how long is a piece of thread on customs!
Narrow down your old mates final truck needs and we’ll all get together to hopefully assist thereafter good man!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

As Phil kindly mentions John mate, how long is a piece of thread on customs!
Narrow down your old mates final truck needs and we’ll all get together to hopefully assist thereafter good man!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well put MB.

[PeeBee]

Air filters arrived today, huge!77198 Can now start looking at the fabrication of the airbox

[poindexter]

Yikes..... that's a big one

[PeeBee]

There was one larger but it was going to take up so much room so I went with this one, rated at 1250cfm

[PeeBee]

OK, decided to go with a water/meth injection system as a way to control EGT's and reduce heat load on the cooling system to some degree. I have kept it simple as the Chev does not have any electronic control, so have gone with an AEM 3302 boost controlled system, formatted for boost up to 35psi. The injection maps are already preset, however simple 'injection on' and 'injection off' selector knobs are all thats needed to be adjusted, and the kit comes with a couple of different injection nozzles to play around with. I intend to be running water only, no methanol as the HP gains are in the s/c and this also allows me to draw down a water source from the 130L water tank i have on board for my supply, hence no need to find another bit of realestate for a 20L tank and have the headache with methanol which is a poison. I shopped around and found a mob in the US who have sold me a kit at $359 USD plus shipping, so this works out around $250 cheaper than buying ex Aussie. Its a really good price, circa $200USD off their list price. Thanks nissannewby for the prod in this direction, I think its a good starting point and can alow me to improve in steps if required when and if i strike heat issues.

[the evil twin]

Good plan, cobber... esp going 100% water IMHO

[PeeBee]

Good plan, cobber... esp going 100% water IMHO

Placed order today for the water meth kit plus the snap tight solenoid valve pre the nozzle. Comes with a single 500cc/min and 2 off 1000cc/min injector nozzles, plus there is a 250cc nozzle avail so I think I will allow for two mounts, 1/4npt each at the inlet to the s/c and try to source a 250cc nozzle as well. From what I can tell, I am going to ideally need water supply within the range of 440cc/min to 550cc/min, but could go as high as say 700cc/min depending on the boost I settle on. I think I can also graft some nozzles from a SNOW kit into mine if required as they have 350cc/min units as well, all simply mechanical. Nozzles are fuelled by the booster pump at 200psi and inject 2 micron droplets into the inlet. Below is the kit.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/292903642471

[poindexter]

Ok, the 6L90 torque converter has been shipped off to be "customised"

Seems like some of the info I got from the US of A did not line up with what was in the physical.....
And that due ( or dudette as the case may be) did not want to let me know what he (or she) did to the converter. I'm guessing sales were on the mind with that. Oh well....

The mounting pads are being "adjusted" and the front cover "modified"
From there, it will be a matter of driving the thing and seeing how the stall behaves.
I have been told that Marks 4WD are having "issues" with the stall on their 6L90 conversions on the 79s they do, and are trying to solve it by "software" Hmmmmm....
Basically, to lower the stall, you need a larger converter, and the only one available has a single clutch plate, not the 2 that the standard 6L90 has.

And there is the problem, customisation of the converter may not be possible downunder.
So, I will get it all fitted up, and see how it roll.

that is all!

[poindexter]

Update,

I have pulled the trigger on the AirDog solution regarding the lift pump and filter discussion. What can I say, I'm an integration engineer.....
So we will have a comparison down the road on this subject.
AirDog is supplied set to 8psi, but is adjustable.
Also, pulled the trigger on a fluidamper for the P400, as I figure, if I'm laying out this coin on a P400, what's a few hundred on a damper?

that is all!

[PeeBee]

Good work Ralph, at the end of the day we weigh up the benefits and take the path that looks right. I have no doubt the fuel density and calorific valve is infinitesimally better, but for me the difference wasn't enough to sway me. I will be watching keenly to see where this lands for sure. What is the fluid damper for?

My pumps arrived today for the lift function, and have the filters and water detection setup also, now need to spend the day under the back of the truck to work out where i am going to fit them. The lift pump is 3 times the size of the cigar fitted by BD.

[poindexter]

If you look at the US of A forums, the std crank damper has been a source of grief, so I figured that I'd cross one off.
Allegedly bullet proof, so we will see......

[PeeBee]

Qwik piks of the air install on mine.
Runs off the A/C pulley (obviously)
Only issue is that it is goddam hot down there under the A/C
Soooo... I'm thinking of sourcing cooler air somehow

@ET, finally came across this thread whilst looking for the GU modified bonnet thread MB did. Where did you source the mount brackets for the endless air unit, or did you custom make them? If custom, did you happen to keep a copy or take dimensions that you could share pls?

[PeeBee]

Here is a link to an article describing the history and operation of the Standyne Fuel Pump.

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/expert-advice/0809dp-stanadyne-db2-injection-pump/

[the evil twin]

@ET, finally came across this thread whilst looking for the GU modified bonnet thread MB did. Where did you source the mount brackets for the endless air unit, or did you custom make them? If custom, did you happen to keep a copy or take dimensions that you could share pls?

Sorry mate... they were on it when I bought it.

FWIW when I had the pump out so the bracket could be repaired 'cause it had cracked, old mate who fixed it said the bracket had cracked cause it was a tad out of alignment so I'm guessing it was a 'one off' jobbie from prev owners workshop (he had a transport company).

[PeeBee]

Sorry mate... they were on it when I bought it.

FWIW when I had the pump out so the bracket could be repaired 'cause it had cracked, old mate who fixed it said the bracket had cracked cause it was a tad out of alignment so I'm guessing it was a 'one off' jobbie from prev owners workshop (he had a transport company).

Thanks, I will fab up something to suit whilst I have the easier access. I don't expect to have the same heat issues you did with the turbo sitting on top of it either - will mount a constant duty bilge pump fan to stir the air up whilst it is operating I reckon.

[PeeBee]

If a lift pump is installed before the main fuel filter hand pump, do you need a hand pump to bleed the system?

[poindexter]

Parts arrived today:

77618

77619

[PeeBee]

Super quick delivery!

[nissannewby]

If a lift pump is installed before the main fuel filter hand pump, do you need a hand pump to bleed the system?

If you have the lift pumped hooked up to ignition the hand pump is kind of redundant. But also not unnecessary, as of you have a failure of the lift pump for whatever reason then you can still prime manually if required.

[poindexter]

If you have the lift pumped hooked up to ignition the hand pump is kind of redundant. But also not unnecessary, as of you have a failure of the lift pump for whatever reason then you can still prime manually if required.

You still need to get the air out, is my understanding, so therefore and air exit path is required, or am I talking shit?

[PeeBee]

You still need to get the air out, is my understanding, so therefore and air exit path is required, or am I talking shit?

Thanks guys, in theory as NNB says and i thought the lift pump should purge the air out, but if it dies, you can still use the hand pump. Now Poindexter you have the super sexy air removal pump, you should be pushing the air out and back to tank with ease? The second question then remains, when I install the new turbo spec injectors, I believe I still have to crack each injector, or will the return rail take care of that also with the lift pump?

[nissannewby]

You still need to get the air out, is my understanding, so therefore and air exit path is required, or am I talking shit?

Yes but either way you will need some port of escape for the air either being a disconnected hose/line or an air bleed nipple. You can generally get away without disconnecting anything with an electric lift pump and just allow it to pump for a bit before startup.

Or a fancy unit that dors it by itself.

[nissannewby]

Thanks guys, in theory as NNB says and i thought the lift pump should purge the air out, but if it dies, you can still use the hand pump. Now Poindexter you have the super sexy air removal pump, you should be pushing the air out and back to tank with ease? The second question then remains, when I install the new turbo spec injectors, I believe I still have to crack each injector, or will the return rail take care of that also with the lift pump?

Yes best to crack the injectors on install to bleed air.

[PeeBee]

Yes best to crack the injectors on install to bleed air.

Thanks Matt

[PeeBee]

Bits are arriving still. AEM Water Injection system plus some shots of the other parts, CAT, lift pump7766777668s, filters

[poindexter]

OK, the custom convertor has arrived.

77822

Will see how it performs.
Luca from Roadblaster did the modes, and put an 18 blade turbine inside (std is 12 blade) to see how the stall goes.

[PeeBee]

Whats the science behind the change Ralph? Is more fan blades - greater drive or smoother drive? Why did you change - what are the drivers? As you stated in a previous entry Marks4x4 were playing around with a computer code manipulation - what are your thoughts on this re success and why didn't you go this way? Is this auto tranny controlled with an electronic system or mech only? I don't know anything about auto trans design or theory - eager to learn.

[poindexter]

I'm using the 6L90 auto trans which was never fitted behind the 6.5, as the convertor is matched to the LS LSA.
Physical difference between the two required that the mounting PCD be matched to the 6.5 flex plate. The LSA has a higher stall than is ideal for the 6.5, and reducing stall speed is harder than increasing it.
The trans is controlled by a stand alone controller that is fully programmable.
Marks 4WD and Quadstar in the USA all did not divulge any info about what to do to get it to work.
The clue here is that the 6.6 Duramax does have the 6L90 fitted in one application, and my convertor specs now match it.
Will be a drive it and see how it goes.

[PeeBee]

I'm using the 6L90 auto trans which was never fitted behind the 6.5, as the convertor is matched to the LS LSA.
Physical difference between the two required that the mounting PCD be matched to the 6.5 flex plate. The LSA has a higher stall than is ideal for the 6.5, and reducing stall speed is harder than increasing it.
The trans is controlled by a stand alone controller that is fully programmable.
Marks 4WD and Quadstar in the USA all did not divulge any info about what to do to get it to work.
The clue here is that the 6.6 Duramax does have the 6L90 fitted in one application, and my convertor specs now match it.
Will be a drive it and see how it goes.

Thanks Ralph. One further question, I have read the comment regards 'stall' but what exactly does this relate to? Is it the rpm needed before the auto trans will actually 'drive' thru to the rear wheel or is it a pressure point - as you can tell I don't know much about this but have heard the term used hundreds of times without giving it much thought.

[poindexter]

Torque converter stall speed is the maximum amount of engine RPM that can be achieved in an automatic transmission-equipped vehicle while the transmission is in a forward operating range without generating any driveshaft motion

[PeeBee]

Torque converter stall speed is the maximum amount of engine RPM that can be achieved in an automatic transmission-equipped vehicle while the transmission is in a forward operating range without generating any driveshaft motion

So what determines where the stall point is? Is this linked to a torque setpoint or something else? I see performance vehicles advertised with 3000rpm stall points - petrol engines - whats the stall point you are going to be sitting at or is that adjustable or trimmable with the computer?

[poindexter]

Stall is a function of convertor turbine size, ie. the smaller the higher the stall.
You can do it in software only by engaging the lock up early

[PeeBee]

Stall is a function of convertor turbine size, ie. the smaller the higher the stall.
You can do it in software only by engaging the lock up early

Thanks, I have a bit of time on my side at site at the moment so have been reading up on this - interesting stuff for a novice auto trans guy!

[poindexter]

This arrived in the mail...

sorry about not rotating the image.

78020

[PeeBee]

You're tempting me Ralph! Now would probably be the time to do this mod especially with the front coming off the motor - decisions decisions

[PeeBee]

OK< is this the DS2 or DS4 gearset? Do you know what the function is of the 'reluctor' - its an additional gear it seems. I think I will buy this since I have plenty of time to do the conversion now and the wait wont be noticed.

[poindexter]

the reluctor is for the DS-4

[PeeBee]

the reluctor is for the DS-4

Sure, understand that, but what does it do? Did you buy the DS2? I have sent a note to the supplier to comfirm the DS2 is for the Optimiser.

[the evil twin]

Stall is a function of convertor turbine size, ie. the smaller the higher the stall.
You can do it in software only by engaging the lock up early

ROFL... excuse the flash back... just recalling the number of dudes I used to get into 'animated technical discussions' with on this subject and how to use a TC Lock Up Switch mod.

Having said that I couldn't find any Tranny Joint over here who would touch my 4L85 / GM Supermatic Controller combo.
I thought the Commodore specialists would have no issues but they wouldn't have a bar of it.
Bit the bullet and did the Lock Up programming myself.
Took a lot of trial and error but got it so I was happy in the end.
Main issue I had was setting the maps so that the Gear change points and TC Lock and Unlock points were suitable.
Top gear was easy but the intermediate gears got a tad messy 'cause the engine is such a low and slow revver

[PeeBee]

OK, waiting to pay the invoice from Leroy Diesel for the DS-2 set. $275 USD plus $40USD delivery

[PeeBee]

@MB, you might want to take a look at this pump setup from Summit Racing. It uses a machined impeller with a closer fit inside the housing to achieved higher flow rates - I think you can also buy the impeller by itself and fit it to the water pump. I am pretty sure the vee belt runs cw?

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/bra-1880/overview/

[PeeBee]

poindexter, Ralph, where did you buy the fluid damper from? I have trawled back thru the posts but could not find it - thinking since I have to pull the balancer off to install the timing gears I may as well upgrade at the same time when everything is apart.

thanks

[poindexter]

Summit racing in the USA
https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/engines-components/brand/fluidampr?N=4294949512%2B400296&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=6.5%20diesel

[poindexter]

@MB, you might want to take a look at this pump setup from Summit Racing. It uses a machined impeller with a closer fit inside the housing to achieved higher flow rates - I think you can also buy the impeller by itself and fit it to the water pump. I am pretty sure the vee belt runs cw?

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/bra-1880/overview/

That suits clockwise rotation only, what do the 6.5 rotate?

[PeeBee]

That suits clockwise rotation only, what do the 6.5 rotate?

I am pretty sure its CW looking at the engine, the serpentine runs ACW - hope I got this right, but each is opposite to the other.

[PeeBee]

Summit racing in the USA
https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/engines-components/brand/fluidampr?N=4294949512%2B400296&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=6.5%20diesel

Thanks Ralph, I am just confirming the damper is for the Optimiser as well, then will purchase it.