Tie-Rod End Replacement

[smith281]

G'day guys,

Hoping for some advice on replacing one of my tie-rod ends.

For removing the old one, I don't have the tool for pushing it out. I'm assuming that the pin is a taper fit and pretty tight. Is there any way I'll be able to get the old one out with basic tools in my back yard?

After fitting the new one, can the toe-in realistically be set by placing marks on the tires and then pushing the car to rotate the wheels 180 degress and measuring the difference in the distance between the marks etc as mentioned in the Manual?

Thanks for any advice!
Tom

[Bigrig]

I think they're threads mate - they screw in and out. Dhuck knows his stuff in this space so if he's lurking about, he'll be able to offer some advice.

[smith281]

OK, cheers mate

[growler2058]

Yup use a lever to apply downward pressure and belt the joint outer with a mash/lump hammer and it'll pop off the taper

[growler2058]

PS Like a wrecking/jimmy bar

[Bigrig]

I think they're threads mate - they screw in and out. Dhuck knows his stuff in this space so if he's lurking about, he'll be able to offer some advice.

Sorry - I meant the join, not the tapered spigot (or whatever it's called) that slots in at the join on the end of the swivel hub arm ... that's a belt out job as per growlers post.

[smith281]

Cheers growlers, I'll give that a go.

[growler2058]

Good lever and dont be shy hit it it like ya mean it and itll pop

[smith281]

Haha, I'll try and find a big lever and a big mallet!

[patch697]

How I missed this I'm buggered if I know...Sorry dude.

OK what Growlers has said is essentially correct but for the job at hand a good sized ball peen hammer will be sufficient, a good amount of pressure on the leaver but it doesn't need to be sat on so to speak.

You will need to apply good sharp strikes to the side of the head of the arm on the swivel hub that contains the tapered shaft of the rod end itself.

Please note I would however suggest the use of a tie rod end splitter/removing tool as it is a safer & less virulent option.

tip: you do not need to belt the crap out of this as its the shock value that is responsible for releasing the pin. A well placed even hit with a good amount of force will be far more effective than a big wind up belt with a dirty big hammer. persistence is the key here, if it doesn't release within the first few cracks then continue with the above method & it will. I hope that makes sense.

Tip: Once you have removed the split pin & started undoing the castellated nut, only remove it approximately half way. Not fully removing it at this point will ensure the tie rid itself doesn't come flying out & possibly course damage or worse injuries. it can be full removed after the above method has been carried out.

retaining your alinement (tow adjustment) can be done with a few things...

The tie rod itself runs in a straight line from side to side. the two arms that contain the tie rod ends can be measured (the distance in between) before removing the old ends & returned to its measured distance after replacing with new ends. I use a piece of steel tube fitted with welded nuts & bolts in each end That I have made up for this exact purpose. I can place it along the full length of the tie rod itself & adjust the bolt stops on each end until it fits firmly in between the two arms, replace the parts & adjust the tie rod until it back to the stops.

I would advise you however after doing the any of the above to keep a close eye on tyre ware & road manners. If either have been effected seek a professional wheel alinement. Also if your not very mechanically minded get someone who is to check your work. These are steering components & if incorrectly fitted could course an accident & worse still possibly harm someone if they fail in any way.

[smith281]

Hi Patch, sorry I missed your reply until now. (is there any way to configure this site so that I can get notifications of responses to posts?)

Thanks a lot for the advice. Yes I'll give this a go.

Thanks also for the tips on the alignment. I'll try and make up a tube with nuts and bolts each end as you've done.

Cheers,
Tom

[HippoNZ]

Hey mate, I just finished doing this job and this is what I found.
When taking the tie rod/ball joint out from the pitment arm, be careful hitting it out as you can bugger the thread on the ball joint. My advice would be to use a rubber mallet or a normal hammer with a bit of hard wood on the top. As for taking the ball joint off the tie rod, there are two setups. One has the removable ball joints that just unscrew off and the other type don't come off at all and you would need to completely replace the tie rod. As for getting the wheels aligned again, get the front jacked up, sit in your truck and turn the wheel one way till lock and count how many turns you completed then do the same for the other side and find the center. Slap the rod in and you will find there is a little bit of adjusting (if you have adjustable tierod) to get the steering wheel looking straight and your turning lock even on both sides. You will know if you haven't done it right because while driving your rig will pull to one side of the road and give you some great steering wobbles lol

sorry bit of a crappy write up, im in a rush lol

Cheers
Brett

[patch697]

Hi Patch, sorry I missed your reply until now. (is there any way to configure this site so that I can get notifications of responses to posts?)

Thanks a lot for the advice. Yes I'll give this a go.

Thanks also for the tips on the alignment. I'll try and make up a tube with nuts and bolts each end as you've done.

Cheers,
Tom



I don't know about the post notification as its not something I've been asked before or thought to use myself, but I will look into it for you.