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Oversize
2nd January 2012, 06:21 PM
Could someone with expertise in this area please provide some facts on correct/safe tie down procedures that should be applied to loading, securing, towing and unloading a patrol on a trailer (flatbed or car trailer) and probably some things one should NOT do...

I am about to pick up my stationary patrol wagon and have learned a few things from various googled sites but we need it all in one place, perhaps in the 4x4 safety forum? Thanks guys.

pearcey
2nd January 2012, 09:03 PM
G`day mate.
Most professionals strap over the wheel that's so the suspension movement does not come in to play
Remember you have roughly two and a halve tons car so balance is to be considered especially on a trailer.
Normally tie either the back or front down by using the axle as the tie down then at the other end preferably using a 3 ton ratchet strap over the axle again pull up as tight as possible then pull the hand brake on and if you want place in gear If you have a winch mounted on the trailer tie off opposite end then winch up firm and tie off the winch end.If possible don't use the tie down points on the body. Hope this is of some help.

dads tractor
2nd January 2012, 09:28 PM
If your using rope halve the rope and create a loop and drop over the tyre but above the disks .take 1 end and secure around a upright under the top rail and tie off with a clove hitch to the centre of the vehicle then tension the other end with a truckies hitch or sometimes called a purchase knot under the top rail. If using tie down strapes use the same method but keep slipping the half loop to take up the slack then tension to the front and rear.also its a good policy to use the vehicle tie down points or bullbar and tow bar to run retainers to the mid point under the vehicle these need to be hitched off the vehicle so if one end cuts through the other side will keep it steady;(allow for suspension to work) pearcy has a very valid point balance the vehicle so that the combo sits even so you'll probably not have the steers right against the front rail. If you need any more help reply and well get on the phone.

Silver
2nd January 2012, 10:51 PM
if putting ropes or straps over the diff housings, watch out you don't squash the brake lines.

fixer982
3rd January 2012, 09:59 PM
If your using rope halve the rope and create a loop and drop over the tyre but above the disks .take 1 end and secure around a upright under the top rail and tie off with a clove hitch to the centre of the vehicle then tension the other end with a truckies hitch or sometimes called a purchase knot under the top rail. If using tie down strapes use the same method but keep slipping the half loop to take up the slack then tension to the front and rear.also its a good policy to use the vehicle tie down points or bullbar and tow bar to run retainers to the mid point under the vehicle these need to be hitched off the vehicle so if one end cuts through the other side will keep it steady;(allow for suspension to work) pearcy has a very valid point balance the vehicle so that the combo sits even so you'll probably not have the steers right against the front rail. If you need any more help reply and well get on the phone. Is anyone else as confused as me. I am sure you are right, Dads, but I wouldn't have a clue how to do what I think you just said. I would just use lots of ratchet tie downs, make sure they don't rub on sharp bits and check it often while travelling. The balance point is important though. I once loaded a Charger onto a car trailer backwards, but it took only a couple of Kms before we took it off and turned it around. Nose heavy is best for a trailer.

dads tractor
3rd January 2012, 10:04 PM
Is anyone else as confused as me. I am sure you are right, Dads, but I wouldn't have a clue how to do what I think you just said. I would just use lots of ratchet tie downs, make sure they don't rub on sharp bits and check it often while travelling. The balance point is important though. I once loaded a Charger onto a car trailer backwards, but it took only a couple of Kms before we took it off and turned it around. Nose heavy is best for a trailer.

Yeh its a bit hard to explain maybe I could put together a series of videos on tying off loads and knots to use etc

taslucas
4th January 2012, 05:21 PM
One very important thing (that sounds simple) is to always put the vehicle on forwards (facing the same way as the tow vehicle). Unless its a rear engined vehicle. Never put the engine to the rear as the weight distribution is too far back and takes the weight off the tow vehicles rear wheels which makes bad things happen!! My mate wrote off the tow car on the highway doing this.

Edit: Sorry fixer just realised you had already said this:)

Oversize
5th January 2012, 07:19 AM
mmm, soooo many people have told me this one, can't imagine how many people have actually done it and learned the hard way.

if putting ropes or straps over the diff housings, watch out you don't squash the brake lines.

Oversize
5th January 2012, 07:23 AM
Is anyone else as confused as me. I am sure you are right, Dads, but I wouldn't have a clue how to do what I think you just said. I would just use lots of ratchet tie downs, make sure they don't rub on sharp bits and check it often while travelling. The balance point is important though. I once loaded a Charger onto a car trailer backwards, but it took only a couple of Kms before we took it off and turned it around. Nose heavy is best for a trailer.

I have a vague idea what he is saying, seems to have a method of stabilising some of the bounce and adding more tie down points at the same time. Thanks Dad

Oversize
5th January 2012, 07:24 AM
Thanks guys, this is great. Much appreciated.

nzmal
17th January 2012, 06:58 PM
Thanks for the thread Mechlou, I've got to go and bring back a dead Isuzu bighorn next week and I wouldn't have considered a lot ofthe points made, good luck with your tow.

The Tank
26th January 2012, 07:22 PM
Jump on to the LTSA website and have a gawk at the truck loading code, it's all there.

Finly Owner
29th January 2012, 12:25 AM
If you can use 1 ratchet strap per wheeldo so. Either from the deck up in front of the wheel, over the wheel and back down to the deck, behid the wheel. OR, from the side tie rail, around behind the wheel, across the front of the wheel, looping around the strap and going across in front of the wheel again eo anchor off to the tie rail. As you ratchet up, the looped strap will pull into the tyre, and create a tight wheel clamp strap.

Shipping tie points can also be used for tie down points during transport. BUT, use all four to be safe.

Never rely on a winch cable as a securing device!

Ratchet straps or chains and load binders should be used.

Always remember to park vehicle in gear and hand brake on.

If you have a late model car, OR an old car with central locking fitted, remove your keys from the ignition, otherwise when you get to oyher end, motion sensors may have locked your doors with the key in the ignition.


By the way, I used to be a damn goog Towie who never had a vehicle move or damaged whilst on my truck, nor, did I ever get done for improper securing/insecure loads by the authorities during roadside/weighbridge checks.

Tim

Oversize
2nd February 2012, 06:48 AM
Thanks for the thread Mechlou, I've got to go and bring back a dead Isuzu bighorn next week and I wouldn't have considered a lot ofthe points made, good luck with your tow.

Yes, I learned heaps too. I ended up taking a friend who had all the gear and a head full of experience. My Patrol is home at last.

Oversize
2nd February 2012, 06:54 AM
If you can use 1 ratchet strap per wheeldo so. Either from the deck up in front of the wheel, over the wheel and back down to the deck, behid the wheel. OR, from the side tie rail, around behind the wheel, across the front of the wheel, looping around the strap and going across in front of the wheel again eo anchor off to the tie rail. As you ratchet up, the looped strap will pull into the tyre, and create a tight wheel clamp strap.

Shipping tie points can also be used for tie down points during transport. BUT, use all four to be safe.

Never rely on a winch cable as a securing device!

Ratchet straps or chains and load binders should be used.

Always remember to park vehicle in gear and hand brake on.

If you have a late model car, OR an old car with central locking fitted, remove your keys from the ignition, otherwise when you get to oyher end, motion sensors may have locked your doors with the key in the ignition.


By the way, I used to be a damn goog Towie who never had a vehicle move or damaged whilst on my truck, nor, did I ever get done for improper securing/insecure loads by the authorities during roadside/weighbridge checks.

Tim

Thanks Tim, did all you said and she is home sweet home. Getting her off was a little awkward - and a little needs to be added about safety procedures on the final unload too.
Regards, Louise

Oversize
2nd February 2012, 06:55 AM
Jump on to the LTSA website and have a gawk at the truck loading code, it's all there.

Can you give us the link, I have no idea what LTSA is.